Just installed Pulley Technologies 2.85" pulley. I found these guys off of ebay they are selling these for $55. They also hooked me up with a tensioner because when you go below 3.00 pulley the belt gets alittle lose. Anyway I will get down to it. Took about 10mins to get the blower off and on the bench I used a tool we made to remove and put the pulley back on this took about 30mins to do because we took our time not to mess the blower snout up. Another 10mins to hook it back up total time under a hour but this is at a professional tuner shop. Anyway I already had baseline runs on my SS on my own dynojet and the best I could get was 215/192 and I thought that was good. I test drove the car after the pulley and BAMMM hit 10psi in a blink and 12 on the next blink in 2seconds I was running :eek: 15psi on my gauge all the way to redline. My car use to run at around 10-11 maybe tap 12 for a second before redline but really about 10-11 after some buildup time. I was alittle worried after the test drive about the AF ratio so I went right to the dyno and strapper her down with a AF Bung. Made the pull and I was real happy 237/217(242/221 if I took the smoothing off the dyno) and the area under was BADASS in some spots I was making over 35 more RWTQ than before. AF ratio across the pull was in the 12.5 range and never went above 12.9 even at above 6,300RPMS. The AF was mostly in the 12.5 across the board. I am not sure if this is to lean for these motors but I am glad it is not running in the 14's or someshit. The car is stock except for this mod. I spent 55 on the pulley and 75 on the tensioner. Needless to say the car drives great especially on the bottom end and midrange. I will post the before and after dyno sheet if I can figure it out or if someone can do it for me I will send it to them.

Sorry for the long post but since there is little info on pulley, AF, and dynos I thought I should tell everything.

Looking to get her over 250 with a few other changes ;) I'll let you guys know.

Yay!!!! More dyno #'s...

How but we get some Slips soon?

Nice #'s btw...

Not to shabby a gain for $130.

Can you post the graphs?

do you have a mechanical gauge installed ...it was my understanding that the gauge dosent show more than 12 psi ...and what have you done to the PCM so that your not getting CEL ect

do you have a mechanical gauge installed ...it was my understanding that the gauge dosent show more than 12 psi ...and what have you done to the PCM so that your not getting CEL ect

Stock gauge and it does hit 15psi and maybe alittle more close to redline. I know these gauges are not mechanical and not the best. I have not touched the PCM and I have driven the car about 50miles with no Problems or CEL.

Pulley Technologies say this is a 15% pulley they also sell a 10% pulley(3.00inch) go to ebay for the details.

I have the same parts on my car. I am going on close to a week now with no ecu problems at all.

This is good info, thankyou!
12.5 is jyst about dead on perfect. Nice and safe.
It would then seem that the computer reads the airflow and adjusts accordingly. One of the benefits of a mass airflow system.
Since no one else has posted such meaningfull results, I for one applaud your efforts!
I just bet that a lower restriction exhaust/muffler would also be a benefit.
Not sure about a header......the distance to the cat is so short.
Because you get boost quicker (expected), I'm interested to know what this does to the gas mileage? Do keep track of that and report.
Although I don't constantly watch the boost gauge, I have noticed that even relatively easy driving get's into boost pretty easy. Still getting 26+ Mpg.....but then I just passed 500 miles and I've been being nice to the engine.
Ron

One more thing, don't bash the stock boost gauge until you know for sure it's not accurate. Auto Meter makes fine instrumentation.
A real mech boost gauge is only as accurate as it's calibration.......and unless you spend a bunch of $$$ for one, there is ZERO guarantee it is any better than the unit in the car. Want a perfect one? Find one that has been calibrated to National Bureau of Standards (NBS) and bring your checkbook. And get it calibrated every year for even more $$$$. I work with this stuff all the time.
Ron

One more thing, don't bash the stock boost gauge until you know for sure it's not accurate. Auto Meter makes fine instrumentation.
A real mech boost gauge is only as accurate as it's calibration.......and unless you spend a bunch of $$$ for one, there is ZERO guarantee it is any better than the unit in the car. Want a perfect one? Find one that has been calibrated to National Bureau of Standards (NBS) and bring your checkbook. And get it calibrated every year for even more $$$$. I work with this stuff all the time.
Ron


I don't think the stock boost guage was being bashed. The confusion stems from the Psi Fi piggyback and how it tells the ECM what it wants to see and that includes boost. An electronic boost guage will only show what the computer sees unlike a mechanical guage.

Nice job on the pulley dyno. That kind of info is extremely helpful.

Sounds like the dyno session went OK...
Now
Let us know when the light show begins :D
WOT

post up those sheets man.. the pullies help out alot on tq from the bottom end as well. how much of a tq difference did you see at 2500-3000?

Did you have to do any grinding or other modification to make room for the bigger tensioner?

I don't think the stock boost guage was being bashed. The confusion stems from the Psi Fi piggyback and how it tells the ECM what it wants to see and that includes boost. An electronic boost guage will only show what the computer sees unlike a mechanical guage.

Nice job on the pulley dyno. That kind of info is extremely helpful.


Exactly !!

there is soo much confusion surrounding mods and gauges... I have read several times that a piggyback is needed because the PCM limits boost ...

i gotta get something like that on my Bonnie

Let us know when the light show begins :D
WOT

An air fuel ratio of 12.5 : 1 might be lean for a supercharged engine on pump gasoline?

Pierre

My car use to run at around 10-11 maybe tap 12 for a second before redline but really about 10-11 after some buildup time. AF ratio across the pull was in the 12.5 range and never went above 12.9 even at above 6,300RPMS. The AF was mostly in the 12.5 across the board. I am not sure if this is to lean for these motors but I am glad it is not running in the 14's or someshit. The car is stock except for this mod.

Thanks for publishing that info. I'm looking forward to seeing the dyno sheet. Did you use the same air fuel sensor for before and after?

Pierre

Did you have to do any grinding or other modification to make room for the bigger tensioner?
No mods are needed to fit it on.

to find proper air/fuel you would need a hand held scanner and some old school viewing...check and see if you are getting knock with that pulley and boost if you are not then pull the plugs fresh after a pull and check the color of the plugs they should be a little black meaning running a bit on the rich side and safe...

so it really depends on the car and motor and ecm...

i have a blowen 2.2eco i am working now that is running 15psi at 6000ft thats 19psi at sea level i will start tuning at 10:1 air to fuel till i get detonation or knock and then back up the air/fuel to last setting :D and then take it to the track and see what she does!

lol but air/fuel can be tricky sometimes as weather changes and octane rating it all depends!

An air fuel ratio of 12.5 : 1 might be lean for a supercharged engine on pump gasoline?

Pierre

i'm pretty sure the "light show" he was talking about was a reference to the light tree when running the quarter... as in "let us know what it does in the quarter"

i'm pretty sure the "light show" he was talking about was a reference to the light tree when running the quarter... as in "let us know what it does in the quarter"

That makes more sense ISO. Probably a little generation gap on my part.

Pierre

Hey guys I took another look at everything on my dyno info. The car actually runs at about 12.0AF until about 5K and then it goes to around 12.5.

Someone asked about bottem end torque and all I can say is probably about 40RWTQ on the bottom in some spots down low. I drove the car about 75miles today and had no problems at all car runs GREAT!!!.

The best in on the Hwy home I usually drive at about 70-80mph I no downshift into 3rd floor it and it Instantly hits 15-16PSI and flys. I am real happy so far.

Someone asked about the tensioner I have 1 of 2 prototype pieces from Pulley Technologies I think the guy Clownhair on this board has the other. I had to run a small shim in one spot basically a washer but on the production pieces that will be fixed but I was not waiting for shit. I wanted it NOW I told them I will figure it out just ship it. They are making a batch of tensioners to work with this pulley I suggest you guys place a order if you want one in the first batch.

Guys I can not tell you how much better the car feels. :D

I will try and get the dyno graph up this weekend I promise so you guys can see the sheet and the AF for the doubters.

Sounds like the dyno session went OK...
Now
Let us know when the light show begins
WOTAn air fuel ratio of 12.5 : 1 might be lean for a supercharged engine on pump gasoline?
Pierrei'm pretty sure the "light show" he was talking about was a reference to the light tree when running the quarter... as in "let us know what it does in the quarter"That makes more sense ISO. Probably a little generation gap on my part. PierreActually the “light show” I was referring to was the MIL (as you probably suspected Pierre)

As to whether 12.5:1 (or even 12) AF at “peak” is rich enough for a boosted engine on pump gasoline- as I'm sure you're aware, the conventional wisdom usually finds this to be something in the 11.1-11.9 range for creating maximum SAE BHP at the crank. But chassis dynos can vary quite a bit depending on the A:F technology used.Oxygen concentration is not the only exhaust constituent that can be used to determine A:F. And even though wide spread acceptance, I have found the reported A:Fs from different chassis dyno wide-band O2 setups to vary by as much as 2 full points! Depending on the controller/sensor combination used, software calibrations and even the location and temperature of the probe. Great for "relative" measurement but it's difficult if not impossible to compare apples to apples between dyno shops.

BUT what would be more important in this case IMO is what AFs, intake pressures and mass airflow levels the LSJ PCM calibration would be looking for after/during extended periods of driving at road loads under boost. Even multiple dyno runs are typically too short and spend a very short period of time within the weighted long term fuel trim cells to allow them to adjust and store. For instance, the lean DTC P0171 will need to trim out (in any given load cell) all the way to +20% before it will FAIL

This is further complicated by the fact that rich/lean DTCs such as the P0171 and P0172 , (as well as the P1182 airflow rationality DTC) are all TYPE B DTCs and therefore are required to FAIL on 2 consecutive trip cycles before the MIL will be illuminated.

The P1182, which is by far the most common LSJ DTC to appear when “tuner mods” such as smaller sc pulleys, bypass actuator tweaks, and throttle body changes are made is IMO this is one of the most complex rationality DTCs ever contrived. It relies on a complex result gated sequence of airflow modeling and uses exponentially weighted moving averages to establish that SOMETHING is affecting the “as stock” calibrated ratios between throttle opening %, inlet pressures (SCIP), boost pressures (TMAP) and mass airflow (g/sec). Recent data is indicating even a folded pleat in the air filter, or an unseated oil dip stick can cause this DTC to EVENTUALLY fail, once a certain sequence of unexpected events unfolds! (Let alone someone replacing the intake inlet with 4" PVC pipe!! - LOL)

So in short, it’s unfortunately not a matter of IF our most recent “pleasantly pleased pulley pawn” will be disappointed by the appearance of the MIL, it’s just a matter of WHEN. (and going all the way to 2.85” I would suspect much sooner than later) This is why I have been so impressed by the ability of the PSI-FI power-paq to trick the LSJ PCM “see what it wants to see, not reality” But even IT may not have accounted for all of the "possibilities".

Pierre, sounds like we might be of similar “vintage” and from our discussions on the Redline forums, I can tell you’ve been around the block once or twice. Do you own an ION Redline or Cobalt SS/SC or just “interested”??

Regards
WopOnTour

Actually the “light show” I was referring to was the MIL (as you probably suspected Pierre)

As to whether 12.5:1 (or even 12) AF at “peak” is rich enough for a boosted engine on pump gasoline- as I'm sure you're aware, the conventional wisdom usually finds this to be something in the 11.1-11.9 range for creating maximum SAE BHP at the crank. But chassis dynos can vary quite a bit depending on the A:F technology used.Oxygen concentration is not the only exhaust constituent that can be used to determine A:F. And even though wide spread acceptance, I have found the reported A:Fs from different chassis dyno wide-band O2 setups to vary by as much as 2 full points! Depending on the controller/sensor combination used, software calibrations and even the location and temperature of the probe. Great for "relative" measurement but it's difficult if not impossible to compare apples to apples between dyno shops.

BUT what would be more important in this case IMO is what AFs, intake pressures and mass airflow levels the LSJ PCM calibration would be looking for after/during extended periods of driving at road loads under boost. Even multiple dyno runs are typically too short and spend a very short period of time within the weighted long term fuel trim cells to allow them to adjust and store. For instance, the lean DTC P0171 will need to trim out (in any given load cell) all the way to +20% before it will FAIL

This is further complicated by the fact that rich/lean DTCs such as the P0171 and P0172 , (as well as the P1182 airflow rationality DTC) are all TYPE B DTCs and therefore are required to FAIL on 2 consecutive trip cycles before the MIL will be illuminated.

The P1182, which is by far the most common LSJ DTC to appear when “tuner mods” such as smaller sc pulleys, bypass actuator tweaks, and throttle body changes are made is IMO this is one of the most complex rationality DTCs ever contrived. It relies on a complex result gated sequence of airflow modeling and uses exponentially weighted moving averages to establish that SOMETHING is affecting the “as stock” calibrated ratios between throttle opening %, inlet pressures (SCIP), boost pressures (TMAP) and mass airflow (g/sec). Recent data is indicating even a folded pleat in the air filter, or an unseated oil dip stick can cause this DTC to EVENTUALLY fail, once a certain sequence of unexpected events unfolds! (Let alone someone replacing the intake inlet with 4" PVC pipe!! - LOL)

So in short, it’s unfortunately not a matter of IF our most recent “pleasantly pleased pulley pawn” will be disappointed by the appearance of the MIL, it’s just a matter of WHEN. (and going all the way to 2.85” I would suspect much sooner than later) This is why I have been so impressed by the ability of the PSI-FI power-paq to trick the LSJ PCM “see what it wants to see, not reality” But even IT may not have accounted for all of the "possibilities".

Pierre, sounds like we might be of similar “vintage” and from our discussions on the Redline forums, I can tell you’ve been around the block once or twice. Do you own an ION Redline or Cobalt SS/SC or just “interested”??

Regards
WopOnTour

And yes, I did sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night.....
Great post, although I only understand about 90-95% of it.

88DT

Update Hey guys Pulley Technologies posted up my dyno graph on the ebay add for the pullies. So just go to ebay and type in Cobalt SS to find it. Another guy on the board saw it and already made a post.

Actually the “light show” I was referring to was the MIL (as you probably suspected Pierre)

As to whether 12.5:1 (or even 12) AF at “peak” is rich enough for a boosted engine on pump gasoline- as I'm sure you're aware, the conventional wisdom usually finds this to be something in the 11.1-11.9 range for creating maximum SAE BHP at the crank. But chassis dynos can vary quite a bit depending on the A:F technology used.Oxygen concentration is not the only exhaust constituent that can be used to determine A:F. And even though wide spread acceptance, I have found the reported A:Fs from different chassis dyno wide-band O2 setups to vary by as much as 2 full points! Depending on the controller/sensor combination used, software calibrations and even the location and temperature of the probe. Great for "relative" measurement but it's difficult if not impossible to compare apples to apples between dyno shops.


Pierre, sounds like we might be of similar “vintage” and from our discussions on the Redline forums, I can tell you’ve been around the block once or twice. Do you own an ION Redline or Cobalt SS/SC or just “interested”??

Regards
WopOnTour


I am aware that AF sensors can vary quite a bit. That's why I asked if the same one was used for both runs. I presumed that the same location was used. That should have given a relative difference but not necessarily an accurate absolute reading. My understanding is that it can take a few seconds for the AF reading to stabilize. My preference for dyno testing is absorption done in the step mode for say 6 seconds at each RPM.

One thing puzzles me about the AF results. the HP difference in the tests was about 10%. The AF ratio also got leaner by 10% (ballpark if the readings are accurate or at least relative). This implies air mass went up but fuel mass stayed about the same.

As always thanks for your well considered response. I may have been around the block in general but I've barely made it to the end of the driveway with PCM's.

I purchased a new Redine late last July in safety red with the old guy spoiler. I'm not just kicking tires. I'm here to learn.

Regards
Pierre

Actually the “light show” I was referring to was the MIL (as you probably suspected Pierre)

As to whether 12.5:1 (or even 12) AF at “peak” is rich enough for a boosted engine on pump gasoline- as I'm sure you're aware, the conventional wisdom usually finds this to be something in the 11.1-11.9 range for creating maximum SAE BHP at the crank. But chassis dynos can vary quite a bit depending on the A:F technology used.Oxygen concentration is not the only exhaust constituent that can be used to determine A:F. And even though wide spread acceptance, I have found the reported A:Fs from different chassis dyno wide-band O2 setups to vary by as much as 2 full points! Depending on the controller/sensor combination used, software calibrations and even the location and temperature of the probe. Great for "relative" measurement but it's difficult if not impossible to compare apples to apples between dyno shops.

BUT what would be more important in this case IMO is what AFs, intake pressures and mass airflow levels the LSJ PCM calibration would be looking for after/during extended periods of driving at road loads under boost. Even multiple dyno runs are typically too short and spend a very short period of time within the weighted long term fuel trim cells to allow them to adjust and store. For instance, the lean DTC P0171 will need to trim out (in any given load cell) all the way to +20% before it will FAIL

This is further complicated by the fact that rich/lean DTCs such as the P0171 and P0172 , (as well as the P1182 airflow rationality DTC) are all TYPE B DTCs and therefore are required to FAIL on 2 consecutive trip cycles before the MIL will be illuminated.

The P1182, which is by far the most common LSJ DTC to appear when “tuner mods” such as smaller sc pulleys, bypass actuator tweaks, and throttle body changes are made is IMO this is one of the most complex rationality DTCs ever contrived. It relies on a complex result gated sequence of airflow modeling and uses exponentially weighted moving averages to establish that SOMETHING is affecting the “as stock” calibrated ratios between throttle opening %, inlet pressures (SCIP), boost pressures (TMAP) and mass airflow (g/sec). Recent data is indicating even a folded pleat in the air filter, or an unseated oil dip stick can cause this DTC to EVENTUALLY fail, once a certain sequence of unexpected events unfolds! (Let alone someone replacing the intake inlet with 4" PVC pipe!! - LOL)

So in short, it’s unfortunately not a matter of IF our most recent “pleasantly pleased pulley pawn” will be disappointed by the appearance of the MIL, it’s just a matter of WHEN. (and going all the way to 2.85” I would suspect much sooner than later) This is why I have been so impressed by the ability of the PSI-FI power-paq to trick the LSJ PCM “see what it wants to see, not reality” But even IT may not have accounted for all of the "possibilities".

Pierre, sounds like we might be of similar “vintage” and from our discussions on the Redline forums, I can tell you’ve been around the block once or twice. Do you own an ION Redline or Cobalt SS/SC or just “interested”??

Regards
WopOnTour

So, basically you're saying it's just a matter of time before his CEL comes on?

That is such a small amount of money for so much hp!

So, basically you're saying it's just a matter of time before his CEL comes on?That is what I'm sayin. But don't take MY word for it.Ask anyone who manufacturers or sells these pullies- SFPH, PSI-FI etc. Even the company mentioned in the initial post in this thread mentions in their eBay ad that "additional tuning WILL be neccessary" with the 2.85" pulley
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8000842579

A great many ION Redline (same LSJ calibration) owners that purchased smaller pullies can attest as well (the 3" doesnt seem to be a problem on some cars) AFR at WOT isnt really the issue, it's steady state ever day driving that will eventually set P0101, P0121, P1101, and P1182 DTCs. There are the airflow vs.throttle vs. boost rationality DTCs that is giving anyone tuning the LSJ "fits" :eek: (Plus a few more TMAP and SCIP codes)
JMO
WOT

<EDIT> OK so they changed their eBay ad and it now says tuning MAY NOT be necc (well maybe not at WOT on the dyno but...)

yes i was jus to ask about that guy from ebay.. deff doing it up now .. big difference while ur driving it?? ooo i cant waitt lol

A great many ION Redline (same LSJ calibration) owners that purchased smaller pullies can attest as well (the 3" doesnt seem to be a problem on some cars) AFR at WOT isnt really the issue, it's steady state ever day driving that will eventually set P0101, P0121, P1101, and P1182 DTCs.


so you think a 3.0" is safe to put on with the stock computer?

so you think a 3.0" is safe to put on with the stock computer?

This guy thinks??? I HAVE a 3.0 on my 2006 and the 2.85 on my 2005 neither have had any problems or codes sorry to disappoint. Also Clownhair is running the same setup as me and he has not had any problems. I drive around with a Tech 2 so I don't care anyway. Also I check my AF driving with a DynoCommander from Dynojet and logged the data on my laptop. Boys spend the 55 bucks and make some power.

This guy thinks??? I HAVE a 3.0 on my 2006 and the 2.85 on my 2005 neither have had any problems or codes sorry to disappoint. Also Clownhair is running the same setup as me and he has not had any problems. I drive around with a Tech 2 so I don't care anyway. Also I check my AF driving with a DynoCommander from Dynojet and logged the data on my laptop. Boys spend the 55 bucks and make some power.
you swap out your stock plugs by chance?

EvilcobaltSS how many PSI it achieve with the 3" pulley ? Any dyno runs for the 3" pulley ?

you swap out your stock plugs by chance?

yeah I stuck a step colder NGK in there to be safe

EvilcobaltSS how many PSI it achieve with the 3" pulley ? Any dyno runs for the 3" pulley ?

I do not drive my 2006 like I do my 2005 (everyday) but I have put about 500miles on her and the car made about 11 stock with some build up time with the 3" the main thing I notice is the ramp up time is much faster and I see about 13psi maybe 14 for a blink of a eye. I would say the 3.00 pulley is good for 2-3psi but the ramp up time is much much faster. I have the dyno results at my shop it made about 2OTQ to the wheels over the stock ( I remember that) pulls but I am not sure on the HP I will have to check. I am going to switch over my 2006 to the 2.85 when I get a chance.

yeah I stuck a step colder NGK in there to be safe
Did you gap them down at all?

And with the 3" you didn't change anything to the by-pass valve and stock AutoMeter electrical gauge ?

And with the 3" you didn't change anything to the by-pass valve and stock AutoMeter electrical gauge ?


that's another thing that i can't seem to find the real answer to. clown has a redline so i'[m not sure if they are in the same situation as us or not.

EvilcobaltSS how many PSI it achieve with the 3" pulley ? Any dyno runs for the 3" pulley ?

I just installed my mechanical boost gauge tonight and with the Psi Fi kit its reading 16psi...

Hey Clownhair, how long have you been driving around on the 2.85" pulley now? You haven't thrown any codes or anything correct?

Hey Clownhair, how long have you been driving around on the 2.85" pulley now? You haven't thrown any codes or anything correct?
its been a while now, over 2 weeks maybe 3 now.

I just installed my mechanical boost gauge tonight and with the Psi Fi kit its reading 16psi...Sounds about right.
AND THE BIG DIFFERENCE BEING THAT THE BOOST DOESNT "BLEED OFF" ALL THE WAY TO REV LIMITER!
Plus ignition advance is optimized...
Do you have a scan tool that can read "knock retard"??
WOT

And with the 3" you didn't change anything to the by-pass valve and stock AutoMeter electrical gauge ?

This is another one of those "sticky" questions that I have discussed before. Clownhair posted previously that the stock bypass is still intact, so basically the whole process is being defeated anyway. No sense making more boost if the car is just going to bleed it all off.

Trust me, i'm not saying this just because someone is obviously just trying to sell some ebay parts, but if we could have just sold pullies we wouldn't have gone through the headache of putting together something that would require tech support.

everything maybe fine for now. You may experience issues with the ecu and the af mixture. There is a company coming out with a stage 1 and 2 upgrade for the ss s/c. 1 is new fuel injectors and ecu remap. 2 is a smaller pulley and ecu remap. here is the link to check it out http://www.autoweek.com/news.cms?newsId=103095

Sounds about right.
AND THE BIG DIFFERENCE BEING THAT THE BOOST DOESNT "BLEED OFF" ALL THE WAY TO REV LIMITER!
Plus ignition advance is optimized...
Do you have a scan tool that can read "knock retard"??
WOT

Actually Im getting used to the new gauge... Its going up to 17psi 5800rpm+
No I dont have a scan tool of my own... I think tomorrow though I may borrow a co-workers and take a look.... I forget... Is knock retard a standard OBDII reading ?

If not do you have any suggestions on a scan tool to get ? Ive been considering purchasing one...

This is another one of those "sticky" questions that I have discussed before. Clownhair posted previously that the stock bypass is still intact, so basically the whole process is being defeated anyway. No sense making more boost if the car is just going to bleed it all off.

Trust me, i'm not saying this just because someone is obviously just trying to sell some ebay parts, but if we could have just sold pullies we wouldn't have gone through the headache of putting together something that would require tech support.


Hey good deal since you refuse to take my calls or call me back. I would like to get a kit to try.

Actually I’m getting used to the new gauge... Its going up to 17psi 5800rpm+Yea, the factory gage was an unfortunate casualty of the piggy-back.(It still works but wont read over the factory imposed maximum boost of 12.5psi) But having to use a mechanical boost gage is not all bad. A decent one easily matches an electronic unit's accuracy, and you'll never have to worry about a "skewed" TMAP from ever affecting the perceived boost your supercharger is producing.(let alone the resulting "tail-chase")No I dont have a scan tool of my own... I think tomorrow though I may borrow a co-workers and take a look.... I forget... Is knock retard a standard OBDII reading ?Unfortunately knock retard is NOT included in the OBDII "generic" parameter set. (although it's maybe arguable whether excessive KR is to detriment of emissions- ask anyone that's developed knock while on a 5-gas analyzer! ) So unfortunately most "generic" scan tools will likely not expose existing Knock Retard levels.If not do you have any suggestions on a scan tool to get ? Ive been considering purchasing one...Well of course... there can be only one, the TECH2- there just is no substitute. But of course I realize it's just a bit more than most end-users can justify let alone afford.
My problem is that's pretty much the only handheld I've used since the mid 90s (and the TECH1 before that) so I really don’t know the limitations of what else is out there. I hear the Autotap package for the Palm series is pretty slick. Maybe PM DanM to find out what PIDs it currently supports for the LSJ- as I know he has one. The new "Interceptor" gage also has some decent LSJ specific scan capability as well for only a couple hundred. But it would mean finding a place for it, and the inability to easily use it on other cars.

So anyways if you ever plan to put the car on the dyno again, maybe PM me a week in advance and I could send you a Tech2 VDR (vehicle data recorder) that will record all of the PCM datastream during your runs, allowing limitless review and analysis afterwards. Injector base pulse width would be another useful parameter to record on a dyno-run.

Of course this would just be for independent confirmation of what we already know. The boys at PSI-FI have made the necessary investment in their on-car validation and have taken the time to insure their Pully-Powerpaq combo truly optimizes and tames the ill behavior of the LSJ PCM. Not only will the PSI-FI solution provide the most available boost and horsepower gains, but does so safely, without any check engine lamps (or annoying reduced power limp-modes) yet remains smooth and manageable and yes even more fuel efficient if you choose to drive it on the easy.

JMO
WopOnTour

What about a Snap-on solus ? Or some of the other scan tools made by different tool makers ? Tech 2 is for GM products only isnt it ? I wanted something I can use on everything...

If I dont buy one soon... which I very well might... I might take you up on the recorder... I hope to get back to the dyno in about 2-3 weeks... After I get my supercharger ported..

Im just deciding if Im going to use it enough to make it worth the $2k+... I dont need it for work... Benz has there own stuff...

hey WoP where are you located?

Yea its GM only, but like I said I'm just not knowledgable in what those other tools can or can't do. If you book another dyno run...PM me


hey WoP where are you located?At the moment I'm sitting at the desk in my office :D
WOT

hey clown hair or evil cobalt could you possibly help me out in what tool ill need for the pully and a belt size without a new tensioner for a 2.89 pully? if any body with this info could help me out please email me ..... bowofdoom@yahoo.com

hey clown hair or evil cobalt could you possibly help me out in what tool ill need for the pully and a belt size without a new tensioner for a 2.89 pully? if any body with this info could help me out please email me ..... bowofdoom@yahoo.com
rent a pulley puller from www.zzperformance.com there is no smaller belt at this time.

At the moment I'm sitting at the desk in my office :D
WOT
smart ass :p

is it like a altanater pully puller? and what is the stock belt size from there i can mathamatically figure it out!

is it like a altanater pully puller? and what is the stock belt size from there i can mathamatically figure it out!


What you need is that eaton pulley puller which is pain in the ass or take the snout off and you can press it off and press it on.

The belt is double ribbed on both sides and it is the only belt of its type so there is not a smaller belt you can buy to just take up slack that is why people or used different tensioner or idler pulley to compensate.