Hi guys. For those who doesn't like long reading, here is a short resume : DO NOT ATTEMPT DOING SOME MASSIVE MODS (I / E / H) and expect achieve high gains without an ECU reflash or a piggyback. Save your money and wait until SEMA or buy a PSI-FI kit.

For the others, I have a ton of things and advice to post. Here is a resume of my mods done to date and some observations we made. The dyno results were always done on the same precise Mustang dyno in 4th gear. Those who like pics I've upload more this morning. See the following links for the pictures :

http://www.*************/gallery/browseimages.php?c=3&userid=2736

Here are dyno results made on a long time period ...

#0 : Bone stock Cobalt SS /SC : 4 pulls giving an average of 191 WHP, 170 ft-lb torque, air / fuel ratio varies slightly from 10.9 to 11.4 between 3500 and 6300 RPM, so stock car is pretty rich.

#1 : Stock + Custom 2,5" catback (with magnaflow exhaust) + 2,25" rear section replaced to 2,5": 200 WHP, 174 ft-lb torque, air / fuel ration roughly as rich as stock.

#2,1: Stock + Custom catback + 3,0" pulley : 215 WHP, 187 ft-lb torque, air / fuel ratio varies slightly from 11.3 to 11.5 between 3500 and 5200, then is rising in straigth line from 11.3 to max at 12.8 at 6300 RPM. That is the beginning of an uncontrolled issue; the stock PCM isn't set to compensate extra fuel at high RPM's with a 10% smaller pulley and 3 PSI more boost. There is a good news for this setup; stug plugs after roughly 500 miles done were "ideal chocolate colored". Plugs color indicate the average air / fuel ratio of long term driving situation.

#2.2 : Yesterday we've made 2 other pulls with the same setup (catback and 3" pulley) and achieved an average of 210 WHP and 188 ft-lb torque, it was within 2% of the previous runs as stayed on point #2,1. But temp (45 degrees F) was colder and since the PCM isn't set to feed extra fuel, the coldest temp left roughly 2% (5 ponies) on the table.

At this point you should be able to anticipate following results ...

#3 : We get the SCdyne header and Fujita CAI installed together. We did NOT unpluged the negative terminal, because I did'nt want my car to throw CELs. Installation of both items took roughly 4 hours. W get the engine started and only idle for 5 minutes without any driving. I think it was an error and I would have drove it for a few miles. But we immediatly get the car dynoed for 2 runs. I will not post the graphs at this moment, since that there are partial results and we saw between pulls that the PCM get the air/fuel ration richen (by a significant small amount). First run achieved 210 WHP and 190 ft-lb torque at roughly 6000 RPM's, but HP was going down after that point in the same time the A/F ratio went up to 13.8 !!! Second run achieved 215 WHP and after that point the A/F ratio was still going up to 13.5 (a bit richer but tool lean). Maybe the PCM is learning to give a bit more fuel, but do not expect miracles.

Here is a quote directly from PSI-FI (took on another forum) and now I am really convinced that they are totally right :

"Like everyone is saying there is no way you can push that much air without the factory ecu going crazy. There are multiple checksum (lookup) tables that the ecu goes through in its diagnostics (part throttle) as well as wot drive schedules. If it was this easy we would have released just a pulley and tensioner months ago."

The PSI-FI kit with the Piggyback will gives you roughly a 13 to 15 % increase in horspower (at WOT) without throwing any CEL's, that is good for the price asked.

So here is my advice again : If you can, just wait until SEMA to see what are GM's stages or buy a PSI-FI kit.

Have a nice day !

Awww....damn. I already ordered the TOG header. I have the 3.0 pulley and K&N CAI. So are you trying to say I just pissed all my money away or the mods are useless until we can get the ECU reflashed? :confused: I hope that the mods I have will eventually do me some good.

You should be right to drive it unless you're reving your engine always at highest RPM's where it will be too lean. Plus the fact that with this setup, you won't be tune to achieve maximum gains.

I just want to say some other things about the fact of expecting high HP gains either from a header or a downpipe or a catback or all togethers. When my mechanics saw the exhaust ports on the engine block, he said : Here is one key to your car. Yes the holes are so small (you can see dimensions in my photo album) that even without any exhaust at all it shouldn't flow a ton of air. So I am wondering why spending so much money on exhaust parts if the engine exhaust ports are so small ? Engine block exhaust ports are kinda oval and roughly 1,5" x 0.875", that's damn small ! The effective area is 1,15 square inch. The volume they are able to flow depends also of the distance they are from the piston, which I don't know, but it seems restrictive.

Exhaust manifold primaries holes are roughly 1,625" x 1". Effective area a bit less than 1,625 square inch. The volume they are able to flow depends of the length of the primaries, but they surely won't be effective for high HP results.

Exhaust manifold collector is only 1,75" at the smallest. Effective area is 2,4 square inch. That small too. But this 1,75" section is not so long to pass through ...

About the stock downpipe, it is 2,5" in diameter for most of the length. But I don't know how much CFM can handle the stock cat ...

Yes we've bought a car who have a 2,0 liters displacement engine, stock for stock it shouldn't be compared with another one who have 2,4 liters (SRT-4).

Another point on the SCdyne header : The SCdyne header design itself is fairly done, but the quality of the product is no more than average. Welds are too large, too deep in the metal and were done using too high temperature.

We notice yesterday on the 2 dyno runs that at high RPM on high load the header and the stock donwpipe became very hot and red (yes it is visible). So this little header must be very well done because there is a good amount of HP (for a 4 cylinders car) passing through it.

But after too dyno runs only and no miles driven (we saw it yesterday), I already get a crack beside the large welding on the collector. At this very moment i have a little exhaust loss. You can now see it in my photo album (.net forum); I had illustrated where it happens. The sound is shitty too, I hear the engine internals under my feet ...

Spoking about SCdyne header, these are made from Hot Shot performance and are drop shipped from this manufacturer. I haven't received any gaskets, neither bolts, instructions or warranty card. Just see my photo album. Facts are facts, period.

Here is also a good link speaking of the oxygen sensor ...

http://www.wps.com/LPG/o2sensor.html

I did reset my PCM today by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes then I let the car idle for at least 5 minutes then I drive it for a little few miles. No CEL yet. I did watch my plugs and they are still chocolate. But the problem is still at very high RPM's where it lacks fuel and miss some extra HP. Will probably go to the dyno this week after more miles driven.

Here is how I see it:
Other than a smaller pulley, no properly designed intake, header or exhaust will free up more air than would be seen between the difference of a vehicle located at sea level and one at 6000' ASL in Colorado. Because of the fact that vehicles are operated at both sea level (and even better than sea level conditions) and at high altitudes the PCM is able to adjust for the change and everything in between.

Exhaust wise all you can do at best is provide no restriction as the engine opens the valves and expels the gas from it. It’s not possible to actually suck more air in the engine because the volume of air entering the engine is defined by the supercharger and equally so the throttle body.
Now for the intake side of things you are in a position to change the opening size by changing the size of the throttle body and since it’s a MAF based system you can make the PCM think it has either less or more air entering the engine based on the velocity of air passing over the sensor.
Has anyone measured the inside diameter of the stock intake at the MAF sensor and compared that to the inside diameter of any aftermarket intake? No matter what any vendor says it should be the EXACT same profile. Additionally the MAF sensor needs to be located in the EXACT same position in the tube. Any changes to this and it will have big impacts on how the PCM responds to the air entering the engine.


I just measured the stock Cobalt SS intake inside diameter at MAF location and it's measuring the same as Fujita CAI, around 2,875 inches. Both are round (not oval). One thing is different: On the stock air box, the MAF is not perpendicular from the flow, it is roughly at 60 degrees. I don't think it's the main problem, because as previously said on another thread, I have myself whitnessed (on 2 Cobalt SS) a dyno loss by only replacing the stock air filter with a high flow K&N drop-in filter.

We should'nt forget that Cobalt's stock intake aren't the same as Ion Redline's one. Maybe on Redline a CAI will produce some extra HP, but I have not seen yet an independant dyno test who prove HP gains on the Cobalt.

I really don't know what's the problem (if any) with the MAF or CAIs ...

just a thought can you increase the fuel pressure 5-10lb and see what happens??

Maybe but it won't help at low RPMs ...

if you were able to increase fuel pressure it would affect ALL rpm's. The injectors flow is dependant on the amount of fuel pressure (to an extent).

Yes so it's not the solution ...

JMC007,
Those are some awesome numbers man. you gained 25whp from just a pulley and exhaust.

I'm just a bit confused why I/H made you loose HP or stay the same but when I think about the ECU thing it makes sence.

13.8:1 afrs are too lean though, I'd be carefull and maybe look into water injection with higher octane gas IMO.

but less we forget, awesome thread.

Another point on the SCdyne header : The SCdyne header design itself is fairly done, but the quality of the product is no more than average. Welds are too large, too deep in the metal and were done using too high temperature.

We notice yesterday on the 2 dyno runs that at high RPM on high load the header and the stock donwpipe became very hot and red (yes it is visible). So this little header must be very well done because there is a good amount of HP (for a 4 cylinders car) passing through it.

But after too dyno runs only and no miles driven (we saw it yesterday), I already get a crack beside the large welding on the collector. At this very moment i have a little exhaust loss. You can now see it in my photo album (.net forum); I had illustrated where it happens. The sound is shitty too, I hear the engine internals under my feet ...

Spoking about SCdyne header, these are made from Hot Shot performance and are drop shipped from this manufacturer. I haven't received any gaskets, neither bolts, instructions or warranty card. Just see my photo album. Facts are facts, period.

Here is also a good link speaking of the oxygen sensor ...

http://www.wps.com/LPG/o2sensor.html


umm... is there anybody else that finds this post intriguing? Particularly the last paragraph. No this isn't a knock at scdyne. If you have some knowledge of TOG you may pick up on this. I am not sure I should even mention it though.

umm... is there anybody else that finds this post intriguing? Particularly the last paragraph. No this isn't a knock at scdyne. If you have some knowledge of TOG you may pick up on this. I am not sure I should even mention it though.


i'm not even going to give my opinion on this anymore, it's easy for anyone to figure out.. and i don't want to sound like i am just bashing scdyne, i'll let their quality and service speak for itself. ;)

i'm not even going to give my opinion on this anymore, it's easy for anyone to figure out.. and i don't want to sound like i am just bashing scdyne, i'll let their quality and service speak for itself. ;)


I would think you of all people would of picked up on this, but then again you are out of state. Check your pm.

I would think you of all people would of picked up on this, but then again you are out of state. Check your pm.


nope i know all about the entire situation.... check your pm's lol

but as i said i will let people's products speak for themselves, and if people want to throw away $300+ on crappy products it's their business, and not my money.

nope i know all about the entire situation.... check your pm's lol

but as i said i will let people's products speak for themselves, and if people want to throw away $300+ on crappy products it's their business, and not my money.

So they are just claiming that to be true?

So they are just claiming that to be true?

i'd rather just keep out of this whole soap opera thing, the companies products will speak for themselves once everyone gets their TOG header that they ordered on their cars :)

i won't be hijacking anymore threads putting in my opinions, but strength comes in numbers, and those numbers will be behind me shortly :rolleyes:

Today I was thinking about why a CAI and a header didn't gave me any HP. First I was suspecting the CAI, since I had already got bad dyno results with a replaced drop-in high flow filter. About my air / fuel ratio, it was already high with only the 3" pulley, and is much higher with the CAI and header ! So today I came to the conclusion that maybe the PCM pulls timing ! And since I was suspecting the CAI, I even wrote a e-mail to Fujita. Here is my e-mail and their answer; they replied with the same conclusion !

From: Jean-Marc
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 7:20 PM
To: info@f5air.com
Subject: No gain from the CA-1416 Cobalt SS intake.

Hi ! I am from Quebec City, Canada. I purchased this very intake from Ptuning. I got 2 baseline runs (210 WHP on a mustang dyno in 4th gear)) and after I got the CAI and a performance header installed, then get 2 other dyno runs on the same day, which gaves me 210 and 215 WHP; no improvement at all. We didn't reset the PCM between the part swapping. Is there something I should do to achieve the advertised 14 WHP gain ? My air / fuel ratio is a bit lean at 13.5 or 13.8 on the very last few RPM's. My modifications are a 10% smaller supercharger puller, a replaced muffler and a header. Or could I expect a refund ? Since the MAF on the Cobalt are very tricky to deal with ...

Thanks, have a nice day !

Jean-Marc
Quebec City, Canada

Your car is running more lean because of the smaller pulley and increased boost. Did you do anything to your fuel mapping ? It is very possible for your computer to go in safe mode and back off timing to prevent detonation. Our dyno is based off of a stock vehicle and is a realistic number. We did extensive testing and feel our numbers are repeatable. Perhaps you should dyno each part independently. If you have any questions, please call Brian at 951-694-9177.

Regards,

Ryan Takashima
Fujita Air
42136 Remington Ave.
Temecula, CA 92590
Tel 951-694-9177 x102
Fax 951-694-9277
www.F5air.com
AIM F5AirRyan


So what you guys think about that ? Thanks, have a nice day !

Forgot to say that here in Quebec City, Canada, the highest octane pump gas available is only at 91. It didn't help me with this issue. Maybe I could use some octane booster or whatever ? Thanks ...

I'm still running the stock plugs ... Maybe some one range colder plugs would help (if there is any knock) ? But if it haven't any knock, does swapping the plugs could help to avoid the PCM pulling timing ?

Forgot to say that here in Quebec City, Canada, the highest octane pump gas available is only at 91. It didn't help me with this issue. Maybe I could use some octane booster or whatever ? Thanks ...

What about some 100 octane unleaded??

It should be nice ... may have to try it, but I would like better getting the car tuned for pump gas; easier to buy when the SS is thirsty.

I'm still running the stock plugs ... Maybe some one range colder plugs would help (if there is any knock) ? But if it haven't any knock, does swapping the plugs could help to avoid the PCM pulling timing ?

Didn't you put colder plugs in on a previous dyno run and lose 2 WHP? Your air fuel mixture also went richer which to me would indicate less complete combustion.

As you have had absolutly no positive WHP gain with any type of intake modification I'd be inclined to go back to the stock oem intake Including the filter and dyno that.

Yes 100 octane would be nice but for test purposes only. When you dyno it is nice to have a safty margin for those sometimes unexpected lean conditions. Your final AFR should be pump gas safe.

BTW Thanks for the measurements on the stock exhaust manifold.

Pierre

What you guys think of that ...

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/support/fmu_sfmu.html

and

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/products/fuel/fuel_optimizer.html

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/support/fmu_sfmu.html

I would shoot vortech an e-mail asking about this or something similar. ;)

Forgot to say that here in Quebec City, Canada, the highest octane pump gas available is only at 91. It didn't help me with this issue. Maybe I could use some octane booster or whatever ? Thanks ...
You don't have Sunoco in Quebec?

In the past we had Sunoco, but now we don't. About Vortech, an e-mail has been sent !

In the past we had Sunoco, but now we don't. About Vortech, an e-mail has been sent !

Cool let us know the response. :) If the repsonse isn't so good try asking one of the vendors about it, either Modern, Rev-it up, or both.

What you guys think of that ...

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/support/fmu_sfmu.html

and

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/products/fuel/fuel_optimizer.html

I received the answer and also I spoke today with my mechanic's. These devices won't fit our sepecific need.

Those would get the job done :

http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm

or

http://www.msdignition.com/fuel_7.htm

(fuel pump booster)

Since the CAI and header didn't gave me one single more HP, tomorrow I will get the Fujita removed and will probably do some dyno runs to see what's up.

Those would get the job done :

http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm

or

http://www.msdignition.com/fuel_7.htm

(fuel pump booster)

jmc, would these need any modification/fabrication to be used on the LSJ? I have several friends w/ the boostabump on their Lightning/Cobra's who confide greatly on it's effectiveness...I would be interested in purchasing one if install wasn't entirely too difficult.

Here is a good text, since I don't kno at this moment if the install is long or not ...

http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/BAPtheory_kens.pdf

Since the CAI and header didn't gave me one single more HP, tomorrow I will get the Fujita removed and will probably do some dyno runs to see what's up.

I got the CAI removed today, but I didn't have a chance yet to get the car dynoed with the stock air box. Maybe I will get it dynoed in the next few weeks. Also I am selling the intake (on E-Bay), since I am not sure of the real output. Thanks !

JMC, you are doing good work! And finding out that advertising isn't always truthful.
One thing to remember, the stock FI system is smart to a point, especially at part throttle. After that, it's as dumb as a stick. When the factory goes to wide band O2 sensors, the systems can get smarter. But not till then.
Maybe some of the aftermarket has got on board, but I doubt it. These systems are complicated!

When the GM stage kits come out, they will have the FI stuff done right, and until the aftermarket gets up to speed, the GM stuff will be superior.

Thanks for your insights!

Ron

Just bought a Mini AFC 2.2 from Afterthoughts Auto yesterday.

http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/mini-afc.html

Connector type is 55NST (for 2004+ new car), but the model they have in stock won't fit the SS properly without any mods. The manufacturer (Easy Performance) told them to get it back to them to get it modded to fit the Cobalt SS (two wires need to be changed when compared to the GTO).

I should receive it by the end of NEXT week. Firstly, we will make some tuning, datalogging and dyno runs to get the max of the stock injectors, then will probably change the injectors.

do these engines have knock sensors? people in the gtp world are constantly battling knock retard as every degree of knock detected by the sensors = 1 degree of timing pulled. my supercharged car likes an a/f ratio of about 12.1-12.5. running that much boost than lean would definately cause knock and if the pcm pulls timing because of it your power will suffer.

p.s. i'm a complete ss noob, smack me down if what i said made absolutely no sense :p

Just bought a Mini AFC 2.2 from Afterthoughts Auto yesterday.

http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/mini-afc.html

Connector type is 55NST (for 2004+ new car), but the model they have in stock won't fit the SS properly without any mods. The manufacturer (Easy Performance) told them to get it back to them to get it modded to fit the Cobalt SS (two wires need to be changed when compared to the GTO).

I should receive it by the end of NEXT week. Firstly, we will make some tuning, datalogging and dyno runs to get the max of the stock injectors, then will probably change the injectors.The MAF connector on the Cobalt is different from GTO, so it will take more than just a swap of the wires I'm afraid. (and all 5 wires will need to be moved as the pinout is basically a mirror image of the GTO)
WOT

High IAT will pull timing and does pull timing. Also misfire counts will pull timing and so will knock counts.

Nothing against anyone, but this whole process is EXACTLY why you really need a scan tool when trying to get to the bottom of issues like this.

It would be real nice to see what the knock counts are for the vehicle also misfires and which cylinders are missing. IF the misfire counts were a problem then I would say re-gap the plugs - then if that didn't work go to a colder plug.

Also during a WOT stomp it would be invaluable to know what IPW and IAT looks like. Yes, A/F from a wb02 is nice, but if you don't know what is causing the A/F you are seeing then you can't even begin to adjust for it.

This is an OBDII vehicle and even a basic scan tool will provide the majority of the generic data you would want to see. Some of the DTC’s will be inaccurate or vague, but the important things like RPM, IPW, Knock, Timing, IAT, CHT, MAP, etc are all defined in the OBDII Standard. If some values are wrong it’s easy to figure out what’s what for the most part.


IMO I think that this may be a case of entering a lean area of the fuel table in the PCM. This is either caused from lack of tuning on GM’s part or just much more psi than the stock fuel tables are set-up to handle. It is totally possible that GM placed very lean values beyond 13 psi on the fuel map and the sensor probably only goes to 14.7 psi or 2 bar absolute. Either case it’s possible a good value could be located at a lower position on the map and forced to the PCM with a signal clamp. It could also be as simple as the 15+ psi seen is making the PCM call an invalid memory location resulting in an out of bounds or divide by zero error. It’s not a bad enough issue to cause the PCM to fail, but it could be interpolating one good value with one bad value in the fuel adder calculation resulting in a lean state.
I know this happens with the 2000+ Saturn PCM all the time and only ½ the time does the PCM give a MAP signal High DTC. The rest of the time it just goes real lean for no reason other than having an invalid base injector pulse width. Problem solved by clamping the MAP voltage to 4.7v and operating normal under all other conditions.

While I would know that a good MAP filter like the SAFC –II or E-manage would be the best solution it is totally possible that a $50 clamp could solve the problem once and for all.


After reading and reading and reading Adam's post, I think seriously this is one of the best post I've ever read. Now I understand it 100% and will make some testing according to it. I've ordered a Aeroforce Interceptor OBDII scan gauge, it will be very good to better understand what's going on. I will receive it probably on November 23, along with the Mini AFC 2.2 MAF signal tuner. I thought also to try a custom map clamp. I think that tricking the MAF and MAP signals within small values will permit to achieve some gains without any cells. Per example, a CAI or a high flow filter will give a higher percentage MAF signal, so with the Mini AFC you can lower the signal to the same value as stock. The increased air (as long as the MAF signal is tuned) could produce more HP (at least for mid RPM's). Same thing for the MAP sensor with a MAP clamp. What do you guys think ?

Anyway I bought 2 MAP clamps yesterday; I will try to install one on each MAP sensor (before and after the blower). I will receive them in a week or so ...

Yesterday, we've done one full hour of dyno tuning, and as expected the Mini AFC 2.2 works ! It allowed to fine tune the air fuel curve, even if the stock injectors haven't a lot of room to play with them. Even without any tuning from the Mini AFC 2.2, the stock PCM still seems to keep the air fuel ratio not higher than 12.5 at WOT.

I didn't receive my bigger injectors in time for the dyno tuning session. So we doesn't measure any fuel pressure or neither the stock injectors flow. About the bigger injectors, maybe I will need them only with an even smaller pulley than 3".

Here are my current setup as tested yesterday :

2,5" catback
3" pulley @ 15.2 PSI
SCdyne Header
Denso Iridium #IK20 Spark Plugs (gap 0,035")
K&N high flow filter #RU-2710 with lower lid removed

We also get the Aeroforce Interceptor gauge installed, but unfortunatly the cable they sent me caused an interface conflict with my SS PCM. So we haven't been able to get the gauge work properly, neither measure the Injector Pulse width for the stock injectors.

Results: We consistently went to 222 WHP and 192 WTQ; giving 285 SAE BHP and 250 TQ.

My previous setup (with CAI, but without Iridium Plugs and without Mini AFC 2.2) was roughly 212 WHP and 185 WTQ.

When we compare the current setup to my stock dyno runs of 190 WHP and 170 WTQ, that's a 17 % increase in HP and 13 % increase in torque.

Have a nice day !

*Bows*


Stupid short msg making me type more.

Alex, It sounds like you guys are experiencing a lot of the same problems (and perhaps misconceptions) that the W Body guys did back when those cars first came out.

Did you monitor any PCM variables when dynoing? Specifically I'd love to know what injector pulsewidth, MAFF frequency, and timing advance were. As well, did you have any hint of knock?

Edit: looks like I didn't read far enough as I just noticed you said you didn't get the Aeroforce gauge working.

Aeroforce technology sent me another cable, and now it's working fine. Injectors pulse width is somewhere near 21.5 Ms at 6000 RPMs, yes they are at more than 100% duty cycle. That's why I will have to upgrade them. MAF frequency hasn't been logged yet, but surely it will soon. Timing was 16 degrees each time with 0 knock.

All i can say is wow this is alot of killer shit

mrb

After reading and reading and reading Adam's post, I think seriously this is one of the best post I've ever read. Now I understand it 100% and will make some testing according to it. I've ordered a Aeroforce Interceptor OBDII scan gauge, it will be very good to better understand what's going on. I will receive it probably on November 23, along with the Mini AFC 2.2 MAF signal tuner. I thought also to try a custom map clamp. I think that tricking the MAF and MAP signals within small values will permit to achieve some gains without any cells. Per example, a CAI or a high flow filter will give a higher percentage MAF signal, so with the Mini AFC you can lower the signal to the same value as stock. The increased air (as long as the MAF signal is tuned) could produce more HP (at least for mid RPM's). Same thing for the MAP sensor with a MAP clamp. What do you guys think ?

All the tricks in the book can't band-aid the resounding source of the problem. To small of an injector!

jmc007, was the new cable for the aeroforce tech gauge one that has an alternate power wire to run to the fusebox? I know that kind was the solution for the 00-01 grand prix pcm problem, and it seems to be fixing most, if not all of the other problems so far...from what i've seen.

what color are the stock cobalt gauges? (lighting wise)

jmc007, was the new cable for the aeroforce tech gauge one that has an alternate power wire to run to the fusebox? I know that kind was the solution for the 00-01 grand prix pcm problem, and it seems to be fixing most, if not all of the other problems so far...from what i've seen.

what color are the stock cobalt gauges? (lighting wise)

Yes it has an alternate power wire, but that wasn't the problem. Problem is fixed now. Stock Cobalt boost gauge is white, with red numbers and white (normal) light.