1. I want to mod my airbox because i want the whine sound.
2. Is it hard? Is there already a thread around about this i looked and couldnt find one?
3. Can some1 give me a quick how to: if the thread doesnt exist i dont want to f my car up.

Thanks.

1. I want to mod my airbox because i want the whine sound.
2. Is it hard? Is there already a thread around about this i looked and couldnt find one?
3. Can some1 give me a quick how to: if the thread doesnt exist i dont want to f my car up.

Thanks.
http://www.*************/forums/showthread.php?t=3890

thanks champ

I would HIGHLY suggest not doing it... a fair number of people have ended up with unexplained limp modes and such after all of these ghetto mods to the airbox. If you cant afford, or don't want to afford, the proper parts, just leave it stock.

But i want the sound. Mines a lease so i dont feel like dropping bookoo bucks on the car but i like the sound it makes.

I've asked this before and folks have their opinions for sure, but anyone getting dyno numbers or know for fact how close the different CAI kits are? If it's only an HP or two then I want to go with the AEM CAI dryflow. Let me us know out there if all the CAI are pretty close or if the Injen and the K&N are really at the 14-16 HP increase range that they claim.

But i want the sound. Mines a lease so i dont feel like dropping bookoo bucks on the car but i like the sound it makes.


This logic will probably get me in trouble but on a lease you’re paying like 300-500 bucks a month right. A CAI is not expensive at all they range from like 230 -330. I don’t know your money situation but if that too much for you just get like a K&N factory replacement for 40.00 buck and I heard that those give a whine also. :)

originally posted by spooner

I would HIGHLY suggest not doing it... a fair number of people have ended up with unexplained limp modes and such after all of these ghetto mods to the airbox. If you cant afford, or don't want to afford, the proper parts, just leave it stock.

Dude are you serious ? Removing the bottom of your air box is the exact same thing as k&n leaving the filter exposed... the alex don't listen to this guy... if someone had troubles after the air box mod rest assured they did something else to cause it....

i have a huge write up on how to do this mod with the k and n filter made for our car and it is clean and very quick, also the way I did it you can put the stock bottom box back on because i did no drilling or cutting and used the factory holes... look up my thread called cheap, clean something or rather i forget.. look up my name and threads that i have posted....

Correction The Thread Is Called Ghetto Air Induction... I Beleive You Are Coming To The Michigan Meet I Will Explain It To You Then

Try to use an oil free filter like the AEM dryflow. That's what I've done, no CEL and no problem after 2000 miles....

Try to use an oil free filter like the AEM dryflow. That's what I've done, no CEL and no problem after 2000 miles....

I love the dryflow I have it on my truck. Did you go with the full CAI or just a filter? If so on the filter what size did you use to fit the stock plumbing and did it make a difference in performance?

originally posted by spooner

I would HIGHLY suggest not doing it... a fair number of people have ended up with unexplained limp modes and such after all of these ghetto mods to the airbox. If you cant afford, or don't want to afford, the proper parts, just leave it stock.

Dude are you serious ? Removing the bottom of your air box is the exact same thing as k&n leaving the filter exposed... the alex don't listen to this guy... if someone had troubles after the air box mod rest assured they did something else to cause it....

i have a huge write up on how to do this mod with the k and n filter made for our car and it is clean and very quick, also the way I did it you can put the stock bottom box back on because i did no drilling or cutting and used the factory holes... look up my thread called cheap, clean something or rather i forget.. look up my name and threads that i have posted....

Yeah, what do I know. :rolleyes: Don't listen to me, that's fine. Just come on over and read the disaster stories that people with ghetto rams end up with. There's a reason it's called a ghetto ram. I know about 1 in 10 people who have done it, and are not having issues a few months later. Not sure why you're going to remove the stock CAI for a 'short ram' anyway. Just for the noise? Nothing like dropping $20k on a car and then doing ghetto mods to it.

Yeah, what do I know. :rolleyes: Don't listen to me, that's fine. Just come on over and read the disaster stories that people with ghetto rams end up with. There's a reason it's called a ghetto ram. I know about 1 in 10 people who have done it, and are not having issues a few months later. Not sure why you're going to remove the stock CAI for a 'short ram' anyway. Just for the noise? Nothing like dropping $20k on a car and then doing ghetto mods to it.


Sp00ner is correct in that some Redlines react badly the the ghetto mods. A Cobalt, the worst you might get is a CEL.

The filters are located in much different locations and should not be compared.

I love the dryflow I have it on my truck. Did you go with the full CAI or just a filter? If so on the filter what size did you use to fit the stock plumbing and did it make a difference in performance?
Just the filter, I use the 3" and cut off a little bit of rubber with a dremel on the inlet to make it fit on our 3.15" entrance. I can't say if it made a differance in performance....

Sp00ner is correct that some Redlines react badly the the ghetto mods. An Cobalt, the worst you might get is a CEL.

The filters are located in much different locations and cannot be compared.
You'll get a CEL if you use a filter with oil.

Sometimes the oil leak on the MAF and that's why people get CEL.

Sometimes the oil leak on the MAF and that's why people get CEL.


I agree! :D

Yes I've heard of oil on the MAF ruining the MAF. That's why I switched my oil version AEM on my 05 silverado. I actually think I am getting better throttle response out of the dry flow and it is easier to maintain, also good for the MAF.

I think I am going to go with the AEM CAI. Is it just a short ram or is is a full CAI like the K&N/Injen?

Yeah, what do I know. :rolleyes: Don't listen to me, that's fine. Just come on over and read the disaster stories that people with ghetto rams end up with. There's a reason it's called a ghetto ram. I know about 1 in 10 people who have done it, and are not having issues a few months later. Not sure why you're going to remove the stock CAI for a 'short ram' anyway. Just for the noise? Nothing like dropping $20k on a car and then doing ghetto mods to it.

What kind of wheel HP and TQ do you think you got out of the K&N? I see you at 260 HP but that is with 2.8" pulley, GM stage 1 ect.. correct?

I agree! :D

Yes I've heard of oil on the MAF ruining the MAF. That's why I switched my oil version AEM on my 05 silverado. I actually think I am getting better throttle response out of the dry flow and it is easier to maintain, also good for the MAF.

I think I am going to go with the AEM CAI. Is it just a short ram or is is a full CAI like the K&N/Injen?
I think it's just a short ram

I was afraid of that. Anyone know what the size is on say injens plumbing for diameter? I think I might order the Injen or K&N kit then swap the filter with a Dry flow.

What kind of wheel HP and TQ do you think you got out of the K&N? I see you at 260 HP but that is with 2.8" pulley, GM stage 1 ect.. correct?

I had 233 with the K&N and a 3.1" pulley, never did a baseline. The couple of guys that did came up with 7-8 hp. Nothing major.

As far as it not happening to Cobalts, there was one racing this weekend. Stock, except for the ghetto short ram. He said every time its warm out, and he revs past 5500... limp mode... just like the Redlines that have a problem with it... happened to him a couple of times on track.

It was just a suggestion, no one has to listen. However, pulling air from behind the radiator & fans, as opposed to from outside of the engine bay, not a good choice... Your choice...

Ill be at the meet but i kinda wanted to get it done before the meet, LAST MINUTE ANYONE <----jackass. If i cant i guess oh well, ive got the money to buy a intake shit ive got the money for all the mods out for the cobalt right now, but because im dumb i decided to lease the car.

Ill be at the meet but i kinda wanted to get it done before the meet, LAST MINUTE ANYONE <----jackass. If i cant i guess oh well, ive got the money to buy a intake shit ive got the money for all the mods out for the cobalt right now, but because im dumb i decided to lease the car.

You could always buy it out at the end of the lease. Then it is up to you on when you do your mods. I had a lease on a 1998 Z24 Cavalier and they didn't inspect it when I traded it in on a Monte Carlo, they just cared about the residual being bought out. I could've gotten a loan from bank paid it off and never had the inspection done. I was waaaaay over on miles.

I had 233 with the K&N and a 3.1" pulley, never did a baseline. The couple of guys that did came up with 7-8 hp. Nothing major.

As far as it not happening to Cobalts, there was one racing this weekend. Stock, except for the ghetto short ram. He said every time its warm out, and he revs past 5500... limp mode... just like the Redlines that have a problem with it... happened to him a couple of times on track.

It was just a suggestion, no one has to listen. However, pulling air from behind the radiator & fans, as opposed to from outside of the engine bay, not a good choice... Your choice...

No I want a CAI but I have been torn over what one to get. AEM vs. K&N vs. Injen. At the moment it may be best for me to buy the chaper of the two out of K&N and Injen since they have all the plumming to keep it where it is at today. I would just swap the K&N or Injen Oil based cone for the AEM dry flow assuming it would all fit......Make Sense?

I know i thought about it. The car has a lot of sentimental value to me. I just keep thinking that if i decide to buy it that its just going to blow up on me or GM will release the new camaro and ill be pissed because i decided to keep the balt.

I had 233 with the K&N and a 3.1" pulley, never did a baseline. The couple of guys that did came up with 7-8 hp. Nothing major.

As far as it not happening to Cobalts, there was one racing this weekend. Stock, except for the ghetto short ram. He said every time its warm out, and he revs past 5500... limp mode... just like the Redlines that have a problem with it... happened to him a couple of times on track.

It was just a suggestion, no one has to listen. However, pulling air from behind the radiator & fans, as opposed to from outside of the engine bay, not a good choice... Your choice...

Would it be safe to say that the Injen, K&N and the AEM all produce relatively the same HP?

I would think that they would they are all the same.

I know i thought about it. The car has a lot of sentimental value to me. I just keep thinking that if i decide to buy it that its just going to blow up on me or GM will release the new camaro and ill be pissed because i decided to keep the balt.

Yeah I understand both sides. I like the idea of the new camaro with the 6.0 V8 from the C6 Vette and GTO a lot! However if your residual value is nothing spectacular then the trade-in value of the car may be close and you can buy it out or trade off and not get hurt on the lease side for having mods. You can even take the mods off that you think you can get some money out of on ebay.....Just an idea man so that you can have best of both worlds.

I would think that they would they are all the same.

My only concern is with the AEM. Folks are saying for the RL it is just a short ram. Pics show both short ram and full CAI, Dyno numbers are around 9HP for the AEM. I want dry flow, but if it is short ram then I am better off getting Injen or K&N then swapping the filter to a dry flow. Cheaper then buying AEM and saying no not what I want, and I get to have oil free and full CAI.

If someone knows for fact that the Cobalt SS/SC AEM dry flow cai is just a short ram and not a full kit like the K&N/Injen please let me know.

Thanks guys and gals!

Yeah, another thing is i know they wont change the engine for the new cobalts just the look/appearance of them so i might even be able to get away with just taking all the mods off and swapping them to a new cobalt. I know the residual value for my balt wont be shit because when my lease is up so goes the warranty, cars without warrantys anymore have no residual, *cough cough*cavaliers, only reason why it would be more is b/c it supachaged

http://www.f5air.com/images/dyno/ca1416%2005%20cobalt%20ss.GIF

Fujita Intake maybe?

Buts it like $330

Same numbers the K&N claims for the RL's... I would be real suspicious of manufactuer's dynos. I don't believe K&N's 14hp for a second. Does anyone have independant dynos of the Fujita? I've heard it's the best for the Cobalt before....

My only concern is with the AEM. Folks are saying for the RL it is just a short ram. Pics show both short ram and full CAI, Dyno numbers are around 9HP for the AEM. I want dry flow, but if it is short ram then I am better off getting Injen or K&N then swapping the filter to a dry flow. Cheaper then buying AEM and saying no not what I want, and I get to have oil free and full CAI.

If someone knows for fact that the Cobalt SS/SC AEM dry flow cai is just a short ram and not a full kit like the K&N/Injen please let me know.

Thanks guys and gals!

Unless they made a different one for the Cobalt, it's only a short ram. For a long time there were pictures of AEM's Ion CAI, listed for the Redline. AEM's site, the last time I looked, only had a short ram.

I just looked all they have is the short for the redline.

I would HIGHLY suggest not doing it... a fair number of people have ended up with unexplained limp modes and such after all of these ghetto mods to the airbox. If you cant afford, or don't want to afford, the proper parts, just leave it stock.
that is the most uninformed post i have read in a while

My only concern is with the AEM. Folks are saying for the RL it is just a short ram. Pics show both short ram and full CAI, Dyno numbers are around 9HP for the AEM. I want dry flow, but if it is short ram then I am better off getting Injen or K&N then swapping the filter to a dry flow. Cheaper then buying AEM and saying no not what I want, and I get to have oil free and full CAI.

If someone knows for fact that the Cobalt SS/SC AEM dry flow cai is just a short ram and not a full kit like the K&N/Injen please let me know.

Thanks guys and gals!


The AEM uses most of the stock tubing for the Cobalt. It just replaces the restrictive airbox. In the end the filter is in the same location as stock. The Redline CAI's are NOT the same as the Cobalt !!!


Check out this thread for pic's and more.....

http://www.*************/forums/showthread.php?t=14784&highlight=AEM

I just looked all they have is the short for the redline.

Damn, looks like I will be going with K&N or Injen, then swapping out the filter for a dryflow AEM cone.

Thanks for the info.

i've had my air box modded for 6k miles now... no problem cel came on when it was like 5 below... went away when it got 10 above.

soccer i see you are viewing this thread i tried to call you yesterday and it said that number is incorrect.

OK, here is my 2 cents worth. If sound and performance increase (although small) is your main objective, take off the original air cleaner housing. Throw away the bottom and cut the top around where the filter element mounts. Buy k&n E-0774 (it is about 0.15" oversize on the ID) and mount it to the mount that was left over from the previous step. The performance integration guys here at GM tell me "Do not use a conical element" on this setup, that it will increase the likelihood of setting a CEL. You do not touch the MAF, the factory intake pipe remains intact and likelyhood of setting a code from this is nil. I have done this to my car and have had no issues at all. You can see it on Saturday at Milan or come over tonight and we can do it to your car too and you can install the filter when you get it. Where people are getting into trouble with CAI's is 1. They do not get the MAF back in square to the air flow path, 2. They use a conical filter which alters the air flow pattern just inside the intake tube (where the MAF is) and/or 3. The filter element is soaked with oil and gets in the MAF which WILL destroy the MAF. If you have a need to put the car back to stock to turn it in, then buy one of the many air boxes that are available because people are spending big bucks on a CAI to get the chrome intake tube and potentially CEL's. Call it ghetto, call me a cheapa%#, but it works and does not set CEL's or go to limp home mode. End of story!!! If you want/need the look of the chrome pipe, fork out $230 and we will get it for you. BTW, the stock intake tube flows as well as the CAI's tube does. The restriction is in the stock box and element.

OK, here is my 2 cents worth. If sound and performance increase (although small) is your main objective, take off the original air cleaner housing. Throw away the bottom and cut the top around where the filter element mounts. Buy k&n E-0774 (it is about 0.15" oversize on the ID) and mount it to the mount that was left over from the previous step. The performance integration guys here at GM tell me "Do not use a conical element" on this setup, that it will increase the likelihood of setting a CEL. You do not touch the MAF, the factory intake pipe remains intact and likelyhood of setting a code from this is nil. I have done this to my car and have had no issues at all. You can see it on Saturday at Milan or come over tonight and we can do it to your car too and you can install the filter when you get it. Where people are getting into trouble with CAI's is 1. They do not get the MAF back in square to the air flow path, 2. They use a conical filter which alters the air flow pattern just inside the intake tube (where the MAF is) and/or 3. The filter element is soaked with oil and gets in the MAF which WILL destroy the MAF. If you have a need to put the car back to stock to turn it in, then buy one of the many air boxes that are available because people are spending big bucks on a CAI to get the chrome intake tube and potentially CEL's. Call it ghetto, call me a cheapa%#, but it works and does not set CEL's or go to limp home mode. End of story!!! If you want/need the look of the chrome pipe, fork out $230 and we will get it for you. BTW, the stock intake tube flows as well as the CAI's tube does. The restriction is in the stock box and element.
I'm 100% with you

Alright, cool man ill take a look at your setup on saturday.

OK, here is my 2 cents worth. If sound and performance increase (although small) is your main objective, take off the original air cleaner housing. Throw away the bottom and cut the top around where the filter element mounts. Buy k&n E-0774 (it is about 0.15" oversize on the ID) and mount it to the mount that was left over from the previous step. The performance integration guys here at GM tell me "Do not use a conical element" on this setup, that it will increase the likelihood of setting a CEL. You do not touch the MAF, the factory intake pipe remains intact and likelyhood of setting a code from this is nil. I have done this to my car and have had no issues at all. You can see it on Saturday at Milan or come over tonight and we can do it to your car too and you can install the filter when you get it. Where people are getting into trouble with CAI's is 1. They do not get the MAF back in square to the air flow path, 2. They use a conical filter which alters the air flow pattern just inside the intake tube (where the MAF is) and/or 3. The filter element is soaked with oil and gets in the MAF which WILL destroy the MAF. If you have a need to put the car back to stock to turn it in, then buy one of the many air boxes that are available because people are spending big bucks on a CAI to get the chrome intake tube and potentially CEL's. Call it ghetto, call me a cheapa%#, but it works and does not set CEL's or go to limp home mode. End of story!!! If you want/need the look of the chrome pipe, fork out $230 and we will get it for you. BTW, the stock intake tube flows as well as the CAI's tube does. The restriction is in the stock box and element.

What size AEM Dry flow should I go with if I go with throwing away the bottom and cutting? Will the AEM with the elbow set off the CEL based on what you are told? Me...I'm after the performance gain, sound is cool and all but this car of mine may never see the track *Haven't made it out and may not this whole year due to work and famliy obligations* so I don't want to have it be loud, although the sound bytes I've heard seem cool it might get old for me after a while if driving long distance or if I have to start commuting more to work. *Work home office for now but it may change soon*

Thanks for the info soccer!

I have not searched the AEM sight for the diameters and lengths that they offer, but here is my general recommendation. Go for the straight in entrance, with as close to a 3.15" intake mounting surface as possible (my k&n is like 3.3" and it seals fine). Mine is like 7.5" long and 5.5" diameter. The point is that you want as much area as you can fit in the space to pull air thru.. The more surface area, the less the restriction for any given element design. Basically, you want an element at least as big as the stock element and a little bigger if they offer it. As far as the sound goes, you won't get tired of it unless the only two throttle settings you know is idle and wide open throttle. It is not so much that it is louder, but that you will then here your supercharger winding up. Regarding the curved inlet, the reason I would stay away from that is that every bend that the flow path has to make is increased resistance to flow, because the air on the inside of the bend has to slow down and the air on the outside of the bend has to speed up. This creates turbulence in the flow path and hence higher restriction. Also, if the turbulence has not become laminar by the time it hits the MAF, you could set a code.