Ok looking for feedback on this...

Heres what im getting, i want to be able to take STI's and Evo's with my 2006 Cobalt SS/SC:

1) Fujita CAI
2) GM Stage 2
3) DC Strut Bar
4) Tri-Phase Chip (http://www.nextlevelracing.com/Triphase.htm) *Please someone tell me if this is a scam like the Turbonator. It looks legit to be. And is the Reflash the same as this?*
5) Exhaust, ive been doing some research and i find out that the exhaust, even the Corsa is about the same size as the stock exhaust? So in total you'd only get a 2WHP gain out of it?
6) WEAPON R Engine Damper

Feedback? Suggestions? Ideas?

that chip is definately a scam, do NOT waste your money on it.

i'm not sure about the fujita cai, other than that it is the most expensive one. the k&n and injen cai's seem to be most popular. the strut bar isn't going to do anything for performance (obviously) but may improve handling a tad. if you're looking to improve handling then check out the eiback lowering springs. exhausts i'm not too sure about, though i've heard that a 2.5" is not restrictive until over 300 hp (which you will not be at with those mods). the weapon r engine damper is crap, if you want a torque brace go with the ingalls "stiffy". also, poly control arm bushings, motor/tranny mounts will basically eliminate wheel hop and help you get your power to the ground.

now, as far as taking evo's/sti's... with that mod list i'd say you won't be able to, especially not from a dig. you may hang on a roll race, but those mods won't allow you to beat sti's/evo's in the quarter unless you're a skilled driver and they suck ass.

also, if you're looking at drag racing (which i'm hoping you are as street racing is stupid) then you will also want to pick up two 16 inch rims and a set of drag radials to get your 60 foots down.

if you want more power than the gm stage kits then, after you get one and have the reflash done and injectors put in, slap a 2.7 or 2.8 inch pulley on for some more power. nitrous is also a possibility if you really want to. just be careful as no one is really positive as to what the stock motor can hold yet as they're are not many highly modded cobalts yet with stock engine components. supposedly the head becomes restrictive at over 300 hp and the pistons will need to be replaced for forged components at that point also. titanium valve springs/retainers would also be a good idea. i believe jbp has these components and victory red ss is currently undergoing a build with them so he would have more info on that then i.

1) Fujita CAI seems to be a little overpriced to me, seems that the K&N does about the same for about $100 less.
2) GM Stage 2 is a great upgrade. GM-backed + 40 HP = HOTNESS.
3) DC Strut Bar; meh.
4) Tri-Phase Chip is a no-no. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is.
5) The Corsa is a great exhaust, and they claim it adds about 12 HP. It's also bigger than the stock exhaust, 2.75" to 2.25", correct me if I'm wrong.
6) WEAPON R Engine Damper is ok, but I'd go with the Ingalls. I've heard the Weapon R's work ok, but they start to warp or bend or whatever.

These are good upgrades, but you'll need a little bit more to actually take the EVO's and STi's out there. You might hang, but you won't exactly take 'em, either.

ISO,

You seem pretty knowledgable. What other modifications would you recommend, both as in engine work and Bolt-On's. I was thinking about the Fidanza flywheel, however wouldnt that lower my low end tourque to give me a gain of high end?

ISO,

You seem pretty knowledgable. What other modifications would you recommend, both as in engine work and Bolt-On's. I was thinking about the Fidanza flywheel, however wouldnt that lower my low end tourque to give me a gain of high end?

a lightweight flywheel will improve your throttle response, but it makes it a pain for daily driving. i don't believe it will hurt anything low down, it will just improve throttle response since the engine doesn't have to turn as much weight.

i'd say, if you want all out performance and aren't worried about losing your warranty, go with an intense kit. www.intense-racing.com they have several kits available for different power levels but to get the full benefit of them you'll need access to a dyno and someone who can fine tune the kit.

as far as bolt ons. intake, exhaust, header (i believe there are a couple... the gmpp header and the cti header are two i know of). i think either intense or jbp offers cams if you want to go that route, but again you'll need to tune. there are companies that can port the stock blower for some noticeable gains though it is expensive.

if you want some performance with gm reliability, then there's the stage kits. if you don't think you'll be satisfied with the gains from just stage 2, then i would just purchase stage 1 and a pulley from somewhere else (intense or south florida pulley headquarters). i'm pretty sure 2.7 is the smallest you can go before needing a machined blower snout, however i am also unsure as to the limits of the blower. i'm almost positive that our blower has a redline of 16,000 instantaneous rpm and then it self destructs. the front crank pulley is thought to be 6 inches in diameter. so a 3 inch blower pulley at 7k rpm (redline after the stage kit) would put you at 14,000 continuous rpms. a 2.7 inch pulley at 7k rpm would put you at 15,555 rpms on the blower... which is extremely close to that 16,000 rpm redline. a 2.8 inch pulley would be safer but the 2.7 will net you more power, mainly more tq.

basically it's about how you want to attain your power goals, and what exactly your power goals are. a gm stage 2 with 2.7 inch pulley should get you around 270 hp/tq or at least mighty close. the intense stage 3 will get you there as well, and may be slightly cheaper. if you want more than that... intense has you covered.

now, pushing this much power is probably going to cause your stock clutch to slip, so be sure that you have enough cash left over after modding for a new clutch (and flywheel if you want it). clutchmasters and spec both make clutches for the car, so i'd look into them. anymore questions, feel free to ask. sorry if this is hard to follow, my train of thought is choppy today.

ya but the fujita has a bag and a hat!!!!! even a license plate frame!!!!! thats atleast another 5 whp. also, corsa has been dyno tested to show gains of 12 whp (prob more like 8-9 in relatlity). and if you go 3" exhuast with those mods, you will LOSE power over a 2.5" (boost decrease). its just not necesarry. there was a huge thread bout that on here somehwere. but with those mods you still need some help to go after evo's/sti's. my buddy has a stage 2 ss s/c with k&n intake and GMPP exhaust, and he can EASILY keep up with evos from a roll. from a dig its still a car length or two. just get a clutch and intense-racing.com's stage 5 kit, that will get you pumping some mitsu-killing power

oh, and i forgot. you're definately going to need poly control arm bushings and possibly a tq brace (the ingalls seems to be the best) to help get that power to the ground.

ISO, what do you make of this? this guy has a GM Stage 2 up for sale for about $400 however. there is 7k mi on it. worth the buy or no? Im not sure how long these kits usually last, also i cant find the TQ brace or Engine Dampner anywhere?

ISO, what do you make of this? this guy has a GM Stage 2 up for sale for about $400 however. there is 7k mi on it. worth the buy or no? Im not sure how long these kits usually last, also i cant find the TQ brace or Engine Dampner anywhere?

i don't believe it is possible to buy a used stage kit as there would be no way for you to get the reflash. the reflash is vin specific and can only be done once per stage kit bought. when you buy the stage kit it comes with a number in the instructions that you take to the dealer so they can reflash your car.

if you're looking to get a stage kit, i would definately go new so that you wouldn't have the hassle of trying to convince the dealer to reflash your car (which they probably won't).

here's a good site to pick up a stage kit from:
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/Cobalt-Performance-Parts-C144.aspx

also, i believe kelleyperformance was at one point selling them, i'm not sure if he has any in stock right now, but you can pm him to find out.

as for the tq brace. here is a link to ingalls website about it:
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/Cobalt-Performance-Parts-C144.aspx

and if you want to purchase it, i think www.turbotechracing.com has them in stock.
edit: yes they do... here's a direct link:
http://www.turbotechracing.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=4591
also, ttr has some good deals on a lot of other parts for the cobalt. they have the lowest price on a full set of powerslot rotors as well as great prices for cai's. they also have awesome customer service and i highly recommend them.

here is also a link to the poly control arm bushings from jbp:
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/PartDetails.php?partId=925&catId=925&catName=JP0925

anything else i can help you with?

Ok im assuming a TQ brace and an engine dampner are the same thing? if so then ive already ordered my engine dampner. as for the brushing, how many would i need, the picture shows 2 on the site.

The GM stage 2 kit, dont worry about im getting it for $600 shipped with my GM supplier pricing.

Im no looking to strain my engine at all with my increase of HP, TQ, and boost. I also want ti to be reliable. Any other Engine parts you'd recommend i get. I.E. a Camshaft, Head Gasket/O-Ring Kits, Header Flang Kit, etc...

Would it be possible to use an APEXi Boost Controller or any ECU Chips for the Cobalt?

sorry for the many questions, im just eager to learn. I actually have a friend whos a mechanic at a GM dealer and hes allowing me to watch him install everything = p

a tq brace and an engine damper are indeed the sampe thing. what brace did you end up going with?

the bushings, you need 2 and they're sold as a pair so you only need to purchase one. if you want to go all out, intense offers a bundle with a 20 dollar discount of the poly control arm bushings and the poly transaxle mounts, though with the tq brace you should only need the control arm bushings to eliminate wheel hop.

good call getting the stage kit from an authorized dealer. if you're going to just run the stage kit with the pulley it comes with you will need nothing else besides what it comes with. if you decide you want a smaller pulley you should be able to go as small as a 2.8 with no further tuning. with a 2.7 as i said before, it will dimish daily driving and is not a very safe setup due to the redline of the blower. however, it can be done. you can always pick up a modular pulley system and have different size pulley's. i.e. a 3 inch for daily driving and a 2.7 or 2.8 for the track. or even a 2.8 for DD and a 2.7 for the track. however, to get the full benefit from a 2.7 pulley you will need some fine tuning. as of right now the only tuning software for the lsj is available through hptuners. apexi does not offer anything, and a boost controller is useless on a supercharged engine as far as i know.

i don't mind the questions at all, you're off to a good start. you should always learn all you can before modding. i've been hanging around the forums for a year and i'm only now about to start modding because i finally feel comfortable that i know enough to do what i want to do safely.

Does the 2.0L Ecotech engine have forged internals?

ya im working with both you and my friend whos a mecahnic at the dealer. I dont want to ruin the engine at all. now the pulley that comes with the Stage 2 kit is a 3" or at least thats what i thought. correct me if im wrong.

I ended up going with the Ingalls Tq brace. Im actually installing my Fujita Intake today, my self, i've done many before so im pretty reliable on my self. I like to try not to rely on others. Now as far as Cams go what would you think of AEM cams? or any other brand. as well as an intake camshaft upgrade and a exhaust cam upgrade?

Does the 2.0L Ecotech engine have forged internals?

yes, the 2.0 has forged internals except for the pistons which are cast in a way to make them stronger than normal. still, the pistons are the week link. i myself am still waiting for wiseco to come out with forged replacements.

yes, the 2.0 has forged internals except for the pistons which are cast in a way to make them stronger than normal. still, the pistons are the week link. i myself am still waiting for wiseco to come out with forged replacements.


Doesn't GM offer replacement pistons? and ive eben looking around on several sites and cant find a stage 3 clutch for my car. Its all 2002-2005 years and 2005-2006 for a 2.2L???

ya im working with both you and my friend whos a mecahnic at the dealer. I dont want to ruin the engine at all. now the pulley that comes with the Stage 2 kit is a 3" or at least thats what i thought. correct me if im wrong.

I ended up going with the Ingalls Tq brace. Im actually installing my Fujita Intake today, my self, i've done many before so im pretty reliable on my self. I like to try not to rely on others. Now as far as Cams go what would you think of AEM cams? or any other brand. as well as an intake camshaft upgrade and a exhaust cam upgrade?


the stage 2 pulley is 79 mm if i remember correclty which is a little over 3.1 inches.

good choice with the ingalls, i have heard nothing but good things. the intake is a simple install, just a little tedious on this car as you have to remove the driver's side wheel and wheel well liner to get to the intake. a pita but not that bad.

as for cams, i did not know aem even made cams for the lsj. i suppose a more agressive cam set up would net you some decent gains, though i don't have much experience with cam work on 4 cylinder fi engines. i can tell you the cams my buddy and i put in his ss 350 truck dropped him from running mid-high 16's to running high 15's. gas mileage of course suffers and his idle is rough, but that's just the price you pay for performance. if you do end up getting cams, i'd get some titanium valve springs and retainers while you're in there for some added durability. and then of course you still have to be able to tune for the cams. that would be where hptuners comes in.

Doesn't GM offer replacement pistons? and ive eben looking around on several sites and cant find a stage 3 clutch for my car. Its all 2002-2005 years and 2005-2006 for a 2.2L???

i don't think gm offers pistons, though if you find em let me know! lol.

here's a link to gravana's site and the clutches they offer:
http://www.gravanatuning.com/applications/2005_Chevrolet_Cobalt_SS_Coupe_2.0.aspx?cat=15

and ttr's site and their clutch selection:
http://www.turbotechracing.com/productcart/pc/viewCat_h.asp?idCategory=5615

their is supposedly a problem with the clutchmasters clutch stage 3 and up, though they supposedly have fixed the problem with the fx300 (stage 3) and it was also supposedly only a problem on the g85 equipped cars with the quaife lsd.

my personal opinion is that clutchmasters is a better company than spec, and i would prefer their clutches, though that is assuming they work properly. you could also contact clutchmasters through their website if you wish to know more about the issue.

their is supposedly a problem with the clutchmasters clutch stage 3 and up, though they supposedly have fixed the problem with the fx300 (stage 3) and it was also supposedly only a problem on the g85 equipped cars with the quaife lsd.



Ya i was wondering that. why is it that the Quaife lsd is 1500 when to get the Cobalt Upgrade w/ lsd and recarro seats is only 1k more?

Ya i was wondering that. why is it that the Quaife lsd is 1500 when to get the Cobalt Upgrade w/ lsd and recarro seats is only 1k more?

i'm not sure i completely understand the wording of that lol.

i'll take a stab at answering what i think it means. to buy the quiaffe lsd aftermarket it is a 1500 dollar part and then the install can run upwards of 1000 dollars. so the part itself msrps for 1500 and the g85 option is only 1500 plus you basically get the recaro's (cost over 1000 dollars aftermarket) for free. gm of course most likely pays less than 1500 dollars for the two combined and thus passes the savings on to the consumer's who get that option. it's just another thng that makes the cobalt basically the best bang for the buck. it's a very strong selling point, it's just a shame it's so hard to find a g85 equipped car.

you also have to realize that factory upgrades are cheaper due to not incurring the cost of the original part. All they have to pay is the difference between the redulat diff and the quaife unit. Its not like the quaife costs them 1500 more. the regular one is probably 400 and the quaife 750. so its nothing. Same with the seats, GM cost difference is very small, if any.

i actually never even thought about that. the price difference between the parts. nice call joe.

As for pistons Intense Racing has the Diamond Racing pistons for our cars which GM used in their 300hp build.

As for pistons Intense Racing has the Diamond Racing pistons for our cars which GM used in their 300hp build.

i kind of wanted to keep stock cr... but those 10.0:1 pistons are mighty tempting.

for the control arm brushing... do i need 1 or 2? im guessing one, however on the site you provided it shows a picture with 2... also is it possible to put headers and a downpipe on before the exhaust? and if possible, is there any downside?

for the control arm brushing... do i need 1 or 2? im guessing one, however on the site you provided it shows a picture with 2... also is it possible to put headers and a downpipe on before the exhaust? and if possible, is there any downside?

on that site they are sold as a pair. that's why they show two in the pic. one for the left and one for the right. and yes on the header and dp either cat or catless. and i don't see any downside to getting a header and dp.

and i don't see any downside to getting a header and dp.

Possibly an exhaust backfire?

Ive just ordered my Control Arm Brush = ) my friend is going to show me how to install it, as well as my B&M Short Throw Shifter, Tq Brace, and Flywheel.

I just finished installing my CAI last night and its a beauty, it whinns really loud but in a good way. you can really hear the SC w/ it. Gave me a shit load of trouble trying to fit it in though because the clamps are so damn big. But i got a free hat duffel bag and NOZ energy drink! :D

Any idea on Race Headers? or any particular brand? ( if you havea site that'd be great ). I was looking at Pacesetter Headers w/ a magnaflow Cat-converter

Possibly an exhaust backfire?

Ive just ordered my Control Arm Brush = ) my friend is going to show me how to install it, as well as my B&M Short Throw Shifter, Tq Brace, and Flywheel.

I just finished installing my CAI last night and its a beauty, it whinns really loud but in a good way. you can really hear the SC w/ it. Gave me a shit load of trouble trying to fit it in though because the clamps are so damn big. But i got a free hat duffel bag and NOZ energy drink! :D

Any idea on Race Headers? or any particular brand? ( if you havea site that'd be great ). I was looking at Pacesetter Headers w/ a magnaflow Cat-converter

well, if you go catless on the dp it may backfire but i still don't see a problem from it :) it just might get annoying. if you get a high flow cat then you should be safe from backfiring. the control arm bushings are fairly easy to install from what i hear. and i completely forgot about the b&m short throw, so good find. personally i'm waiting on the hurst to compare before buying one. but i have heard no complaints about the b&m.

post up some pics of the intake if you get a chance, i have not seen the f5 on a cobalt yet. and, oh yeah, that whine is addicting. my mpg took a huge hit when i installed my drop in because everywhere i went i'd gun it so i could listen to the whine.

as for headers the only ones i know of are cti:
http://www.customtubesinc.com/

and the gmpp extruded/honed manifold. though pacesetter is a reputable company so i wouldn't doubt they make a good header. the problem with headers on the cobalt is there is just not enough room, so it's nearly impossible for a set of true long tube headers. but most aftermarket headers will still be better than the stock manifold (just stay away from tog as ther4e were several fitment issues with there header).

Ok i just took a look at the CTI Race Headers. However it doesn't give much info on performance gains. and correct me if i read it wrong. It comes with headers, downpipe, and Cat-Converter? and your saying it wont fit in my cobalt though?

What do you make of these?

Weapon-R: http://www.anbauto.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=29
Pacesetter: http://cobalt-addiction.com/performance.htm (GOTO HEADERS)
And as for the GMPP what sort of advantage would i see with that? besides it not voiding the warranty?

So when an exhaust backfires, that doesn't damage the car in anyway? and the stock exhaust will support up to 290WHP is that correct?

*and will i need to buy any additional gaskets or hardware with any headers?*

that pacesetter header is for the 2.2l cobalts. gotta be careful about what model stuff is for. as for the weapon r, i really don't trust anything they make. and the cti header comes with a dp and cat from what i can tell.

about fitment, yes the cti header will fit. what i was saying is that it is impossible to fit true long tube headers in the cobalt. longtube headers give the best gains of the different types of headers, though a true set would not fit in the cobalt.

for more info on the cti header check out this thread.
http://www.cobaltss.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3413

I have seen long tube headers on a Saturn Ion, but i dont know what kind they were. The backfiring is not harmful, the car would backfire anyway, but the stock cat and exhaust is designed to stop any noise from it from leaving the exhaust. Aftermarket removes the restrictions, allowing more power, and also more noise.

thanks, now moving on to a stage 3 clutch what do you all make of this?

http://www.turbotechracing.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=5615&idproduct=2755

and still with headers. would i need any additional brackets or parts that doesn't come with the headers?

I have seen long tube headers on a Saturn Ion, but i dont know what kind they were. The backfiring is not harmful, the car would backfire anyway, but the stock cat and exhaust is designed to stop any noise from it from leaving the exhaust. Aftermarket removes the restrictions, allowing more power, and also more noise.

the engine compartment in the ion is larger, so it is quite possible that long tube headers fit in the rl. it's also possible they weren't true long tube headers but were being advertised as such.

thanks, now moving on to a stage 3 clutch what do you all make of this?

http://www.turbotechracing.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=5615&idproduct=2755

and still with headers. would i need any additional brackets or parts that doesn't come with the headers?

the spec stage 3 is a good choice as i haven't heard of any fitment issues and it should be plenty capable of handling some good power.

with the headers, they should come with everything you need unless otherwise noted.

as far as Turbo chargers go, i spoke with a rep from Hahn racing and they claim that they are curently developing a turbo for the Cobalt ss 2.0. Wont be released until mid July and will be priced aroun $2000-3000. Do you know of any others? and if added, what engine upgrades should i do? (ie head gasket).

What do you think of Garrett Turbochargers?

well, the kit hahn is developing is a bolt on pre tuned kit for a nice twincharged setup. any other turbos you'd have to do a lot of custom work. sts makes remote turbochargers and were rumored to have a kit in the works for the ss, though i have heard nothing else of it. garrett makes good turbo's but once again you'd have a lot of custom work and tuning on your hands.

for pushing serious power, i'd say ported head, head gaskets, titanium valve springs and retainers, and forged pistons.

well, the kit hahn is developing is a bolt on pre tuned kit for a nice twincharged setup. any other turbos you'd have to do a lot of custom work. sts makes remote turbochargers and were rumored to have a kit in the works for the ss, though i have heard nothing else of it. garrett makes good turbo's but once again you'd have a lot of custom work and tuning on your hands.

for pushing serious power, i'd say ported head, head gaskets, titanium valve springs and retainers, and forged pistons.

I believe i will wait for Hahn, less trouble the way i see it. How would you go about mounting 2 intercoolers though?

What is a ported head? and as for a head gasket what type?. And finally isnt our pistons forged already?

I believe i will wait for Hahn, less trouble the way i see it. How would you go about mounting 2 intercoolers though?

What is a ported head? and as for a head gasket what type?. And finally isnt our pistons forged already?
Pistons are not forged. Ported head allows for the best flow. It really sounds like you want to spend money so follow me. The list doesn't include a turbo but there will be one.

Block Components
----------------
GM Main Bearing Kit
GM Rod Bearings
GM Balance Shaft Bearings
Full Head Set Kit
Engine Set
Intake Gasket Set
Crank
Water Pump
Front Cover
Cover Gasket
Outside Water Pump
Rear Main Seal
Nodular Iron Liners
ARP Head Studs
GM Main Bolts Kit
Bates Engineering Oil Pump Gears
Bates Engineering Valve Seals
JBP TriFlow - Custom Grind
(specs to be mathematically calc.)
JBP Adj. Timing Gears
Neutral Balance Shafts
TB Bore to req'd diam. (incld CNC plate)
JBP Hi-Performance Chain Tensioner
JBP Supercharger Porting
Supercharger Show Finishing
Alum. Engine Components Show Finishing

Block Machining
---------------
Block Tricks Oil Passages Chamfer
Block Tricks Oil Passages Radius
Blend Known Casting Flashes
Full Balance on Rotation Assembly
Rec'v Engine, Teardown
Full Inspection
Bore + Sleeve, Reinforce Cylinder wall
Bore + Stone Grind Deck
After-Bore Wash and Clean
Inspect Polish Crankshaft
Cross Drilled Crankshaft
Full Assembly Long Block

Head
----
JBP Stage 3(+1) Cylinder Head
(Combustion chamber ceramic coat+blend)
--------


Customer Supplied Parts
-----------------------
Diamond Forged Pistons
Total Seal Gapless Rings
Piston Pins
Pin Locks

Pistons are not forged. Ported head allows for the best flow. It really sounds like you want to spend money so follow me. The list doesn't include a turbo but there will be one.

Block Components
----------------
GM Main Bearing Kit
GM Rod Bearings
GM Balance Shaft Bearings
Full Head Set Kit
Engine Set
Intake Gasket Set
Crank
Water Pump
Front Cover
Cover Gasket
Outside Water Pump
Rear Main Seal
Nodular Iron Liners
ARP Head Studs
GM Main Bolts Kit
Bates Engineering Oil Pump Gears
Bates Engineering Valve Seals
JBP TriFlow - Custom Grind
(specs to be mathematically calc.)
JBP Adj. Timing Gears
Neutral Balance Shafts
TB Bore to req'd diam. (incld CNC plate)
JBP Hi-Performance Chain Tensioner
JBP Supercharger Porting
Supercharger Show Finishing
Alum. Engine Components Show Finishing

Block Machining
---------------
Block Tricks Oil Passages Chamfer
Block Tricks Oil Passages Radius
Blend Known Casting Flashes
Full Balance on Rotation Assembly
Rec'v Engine, Teardown
Full Inspection
Bore + Sleeve, Reinforce Cylinder wall
Bore + Stone Grind Deck
After-Bore Wash and Clean
Inspect Polish Crankshaft
Cross Drilled Crankshaft
Full Assembly Long Block

Head
----
JBP Stage 3(+1) Cylinder Head
(Combustion chamber ceramic coat+blend)
--------


Customer Supplied Parts
-----------------------
Diamond Forged Pistons
Total Seal Gapless Rings
Piston Pins
Pin Locks

First id like to say. DAMN. 2nd i wouldnt even know where to start looking for all of that or even what i should get first, 2nd, 3rd. How much HP/TQ/PSI are you pushing with that? and how much did all that cost?

First id like to say. DAMN. 2nd i wouldnt even know where to start looking for all of that or even what i should get first, 2nd, 3rd. How much HP/TQ/PSI are you pushing with that? and how much did all that cost?
These are the parts that are going into my engine as we type. I am having this engine built by JBodyPerformance and most of the components they ordered. There is a seperate list of things that I am doing to enhance my performance\handling some of which are in my signature.
The engine is being built to hold 550hp and the goal is to put down between 450-500whp.
The cost of the whole project is a lot and just when I think I have a final # something else comes up. Lets just say that I could likely have paid for both your car and mine. But heck it is going to be one sweet ride ;)

haha just dont wreck :p then it would be pointless, i dont think your insurence would cover it. Let me know what the number turns out to be. i love my cobalt soooooo much that i may consider. are you paying JD for labor? i assume so. how much /hr and where are they located?

haha just dont wreck :p then it would be pointless, i dont think your insurence would cover it. Let me know what the number turns out to be. i love my cobalt soooooo much that i may consider. are you paying JD for labor? i assume so. how much /hr and where are they located?
I have wrecked my share of cars practicing how to stay between the lines. :p
JBP is giving me a big price break on labour as this is the first 2.0 that anyone has had this scope of work done to it and JBP wants the bragging right to say they built this engine. I am likley still 5-6 weeks away from having it all together again. :( On the bright side though I have all kinds of delivery trucks bringing me parts 2-3 times a week. :D

ps they are in Toronto, Canada

how much did it cost to ship it all out? dude i can imagine that shipping is more than the labor = p lol. Let me see, ask them if they can get me a flippin good deal i may go with them. How much are you at now?

ps- my friend says just buy a viper with all that being done

how much did it cost to ship it all out? dude i can imagine that shipping is more than the labor = p lol. Let me see, ask them if they can get me a flippin good deal i may go with them. How much are you at now?

ps- my friend says just buy a viper with all that being done

yea, but it would be so much more fun to beat a viper in a cobalt :D

how much did it cost to ship it all out? dude i can imagine that shipping is more than the labor = p lol. Let me see, ask them if they can get me a flippin good deal i may go with them. How much are you at now?

ps- my friend says just buy a viper with all that being done
I had to ship from Vancouver to Toronto and they got it done for $300 both ways.
Now as for the viper comment. Imagine the look on his face when a Cobalt either beats him of stays right next to him. :p :p

check your PM soon

yea, but it would be so much more fun to beat a viper in a cobalt :D
iso I couldn't have said it better. I was typing that but I type much slower than I drive :rolleyes:

So WTF was this thread originally about again?

what mods are good to start out with. what's good for the money, etc. it was going good.

what mods are good to start out with. what's good for the money, etc. it was going good.

it was going good. you guys totally ruined it though. im just trying to get my car togeather. but its hard to read w/ you all arguing. just pm each other and bitch at each other im trying to learn about stuff here.

Now as for Turbos as i said before would you need any additional upgrades to your engine opposed to what would normally come in a turbo kit? other than forged pistons?

it was going good. you guys totally ruined it though. im just trying to get my car togeather. but its hard to read w/ you all arguing. just pm each other and bitch at each other im trying to learn about stuff here.

Now as for Turbos as i said before would you need any additional upgrades to your engine opposed to what would normally come in a turbo kit? other than forged pistons?

they better not pm me and start this crap, i get pms i'd actually like to read.

if you go with an actual kit for the car (such as the hahn kit that will be coming out) you shouldn't need anything besids the kit and some forged pistons. the kit will come with everything else you need.

You two were warned.

Good by.

thank you paul. looks like your thread is safe, felix. now let's get to moddin!

You two were warned.

Good by.
Thank you. Makes this thread worth reading again.

Thank you. Makes this thread worth reading again.

Yeap just PM me when ever you or anyone needs anything like dealing with members that are picking fights with you just PM and tell me where it is and or send me a link.

The GM stage 2 kit, dont worry about im getting it for $600 shipped with my GM supplier pricing.
WHAT!!! My dealer wouldn't let me use my supplier discount. In fact, they tried to charge me more. No worries though. I used my sister to get the stage 2 at her employee price at another dealer which was cheaper than supplier.

WHAT!!! My dealer wouldn't let me use my supplier discount. In fact, they tried to charge me more. No worries though. I used my sister to get the stage 2 at her employee price at another dealer which was cheaper than supplier.

you've gotta learn to negotiate = p trust me my supplier price for my Cobalt got it down to 21,100 i took them down to a straight 20,000 even. I just recieved my stage 2, do i need a pulley puller as well or does everything come in the box?

you've gotta learn to negotiate = p trust me my supplier price for my Cobalt got it down to 21,100 i took them down to a straight 20,000 even. I just recieved my stage 2, do i need a pulley puller as well or does everything come in the box?


Yes a puller is required.

Yes a puller is required.

Theres always something else isnt there. do you recommend any in particualr? and would the GM dealershiop have it?

Theres always something else isnt there. do you recommend any in particualr? and would the GM dealershiop have it?
I know that the GM dealer who did my stage 2 install had one but they won't have them for sale or rent. I am not sure which type is actually needed to remove our pullies but I know some people have bought them for $100. I don't see why one couldn't be rented.

I know that the GM dealer who did my stage 2 install had one but they won't have them for sale or rent. I am not sure which type is actually needed to remove our pullies but I know some people have bought them for $100. I don't see why one couldn't be rented.

i actually spoke with my friend whos a mech for GM he said they have one i could use free