Ok so i just installed a high performance filter on my 06 Cobalt SS/SC and the check engine light went on a couple hours later. I also didnt put the cover peice that goes under the stock filter back on when i installed the high perfromance air filter. Is this bad and will it affect the whine it makes if i put it back on? Can anyone help with the check engine light on as well?

just get use to it till u get a reflash. its not hurting anything, so long as u dont go sit in a puddle :rolleyes:

Ok so i just installed a high performance filter on my 06 Cobalt SS/SC and the check engine light went on a couple hours later. I also didnt put the cover peice that goes under the stock filter back on when i installed the high perfromance air filter. Is this bad and will it affect the whine it makes if i put it back on? Can anyone help with the check engine light on as well?

I noticed now that when i hit the gas the rpm's dont go up instantly. they wait now and then they go up. Is this from the flilter or anything?

no thats just the slowness of all of the stock ss's. get a pulley and u wont notice that anymore. or it could possibly be ur clutch.

Now your sure because that never happened before because even at top gear the car is still hesitating when in neutral you rev the gas it hesitates then goes up i hope this isnt due to the filter?

I personally think that it could be something else. I recommend that you take it to the dealer so they can scan the code. Its your best bet.

Remove the battary termanal for about 10 minutes and try it out your getting more air so it confusees the cpu to not suck as much air once you unhook the term and rehook all the back logs in the cpu reset so that it thinks the new incoming air is right also the lag is because the plugs in these cars aren't made for a electronic throttle body go to advanced or some where and buy NGK Iridium Ix Plugs and then after you get them in watch how fast your car revs and how much better the acceleration is.

Now your sure because that never happened before because even at top gear the car is still hesitating when in neutral you rev the gas it hesitates then goes up i hope this isnt due to the filter?

put the stock stuff back on and go to the dealer and have them check your codes for the crank positoin sensor. Right now that sensor is the most common problem according to the dealer near me.

This may be a dumb question, but I'll throw it out there anyways...

Since you left the bottom cover off, did you secure the filter in place with anything? Someone else had very similar problems and it turned out the filter had just fallen off.

Its clamped on with the clamp that goes around the top of the filter we tightened it as much as possible but whats the crank position sensor and my friend drove my car and said there is nothing wrong with it because he had done the same to his car as well.

Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensor/CPS
Monitors the rotation of the engine and tells the computer exactly when to trigger the fuel injectors or the ignition spark.

well i didnt know you had this many issues. put the bottom cover on first, then take it to the dealer. dont mention the filter and ask them to scan the code and tell them whats wrong. that should do it!

I was also told i can go to a local autozone and they are able to scan the code as well. I dont want to risk the warranty ive had the car for only 2 months or so

ya i tried autozone one time cause my shop was closed, and my car was 3 years too new for their 40 dollar scan tool bought at sears lol

Haha well i guess it doesnt hurt to try lol dam clutch is killing me

Crap! I post in this thread and what do you know? I get a CEL with "Engine Power Reduced" today. I let it sit for 15 minutes, started it back up, wouldn't even barely idle, stalled if I tried to move. Let it sit for another 45 minutes, same thing. It sounds like it's only running on 1 cylinder. Got it towed to the nearest dealer, will be bugging them all day tommorrow to find out what's going on.

It's been idling a little rough, and lately when the engine is cold, it takes up to 5 seconds of cranking before it finally starts. I'm thinking my problem might be like xCobalt05x said, the crankshaft position sensor.

do you have any mods to your cobalt that would affect this and how long have they been on?

Is it possible that i could have this problem due to the air filter im getting worried

I've had an Injen CAI on since Feb., no CEL's ever with it. I've got stage 2 (since April) and put a 2.8" on a couple weeks ago. None of those should be causing me problems. I haven't seen my A/F ratios with the 2.8 yet, but I haven't gotten a lean code and others who have dyno'd with the 2.8 and stage 2 say it stays in the 12's, so the stage 2 tuning should be fine.

Anyone know if my air filter could cause serious problems with my car?

Crap! I post in this thread and what do you know? I get a CEL with "Engine Power Reduced" today. I let it sit for 15 minutes, started it back up, wouldn't even barely idle, stalled if I tried to move. Let it sit for another 45 minutes, same thing. It sounds like it's only running on 1 cylinder. Got it towed to the nearest dealer, will be bugging them all day tommorrow to find out what's going on.

It's been idling a little rough, and lately when the engine is cold, it takes up to 5 seconds of cranking before it finally starts. I'm thinking my problem might be like xCobalt05x said, the crankshaft position sensor.

uh oh somebodys experiencing the short-commings of GM's stage kits. if you will, please go over to problems and dealer service and read "mystery balt". you will find your explanation to your issues over there. :D

So this means theres a down side to stageing your car?

Yeah, they get a little tempermental when you beat on them.

Well this really makes me reconsider whether or not i should buy a stage 2 kit for my car. I dont want to spend all that money and then regret it later. Anyone object to me not buying it?

No, by all means, buy it. Just be prepared for some little glitches along the way. Nothing major, and the first time you take the car to 110 in third gear, its all worth it.

Well this really makes me reconsider whether or not i should buy a stage 2 kit for my car. I dont want to spend all that money and then regret it later. Anyone object to me not buying it?

get the PCM from intense. same 7k rev limiter with better fuel/timing curves. only 200. you can run any pulley too

After the dealer spends half the day looking for my keys (says the tow truck driver never left them), they check my car out and tell me it was just the throttle body sensor popped loose. Strange that I had just driven over 4 hours that day and all of a sudden at 60 mph it just pops out. Even stranger that I didn't notice it when I looked it over after getting the CEL. Convenient for them as they charged me an $80 diagnostic fee ($4.90 for "environmental compliance"?). They pulled 2 codes: P0122 and P0223. They said one is for the throttle body and the other is for "high rpm engine freeze". I was at around 4000-4500 rpm when it threw the CEL.

Of course I got the voided warranty lecture because of the Injen CAI and an argument over the Magneson-Moss act ensued, the dealer insisting the CAI voided my entire warranty I wish there was a decent Chevy dealer within 100 miles of me...

They also argued with me that there is no such thing as GM stage kits (different dealer than the one that installed mine). GM needs to work on their communication skills with their dealers.

uh oh somebodys experiencing the short-commings of GM's stage kits. if you will, please go over to problems and dealer service and read "mystery balt". you will find your explanation to your issues over there. :DI read the thread, my issues weren't like that, and I've had the stage 2 since April without problems. I've also been running the A/C every day since I got the kit, seeing how I live in Florida too. Now when the kit was first installed, my car did seem to choke and sputter below 3k rpms, but colder plugs (BKR7E's) fixed that. I've got over 4k miles since the stage 2 was installed, and this was the first CEL I've gotten.

Crap! I post in this thread and what do you know? I get a CEL with "Engine Power Reduced" today. I let it sit for 15 minutes, started it back up, wouldn't even barely idle, stalled if I tried to move. Let it sit for another 45 minutes, same thing. It sounds like it's only running on 1 cylinder. Got it towed to the nearest dealer, will be bugging them all day tommorrow to find out what's going on.

It's been idling a little rough, and lately when the engine is cold, it takes up to 5 seconds of cranking before it finally starts. I'm thinking my problem might be like xCobalt05x said, the crankshaft position sensor.

that's limp mode. when something happens that could possibly damage the car it goes into limp mode or "limp home mode" so you can get home or somewhere and park the car til you can get it looked at. just a safety precaution. some people have experienced this while completely stock.

Anyone know if my air filter could cause serious problems with my car?

it's just a filter don't worry. the only issue is since it's a k&n and it uses oil you can get oil on the maf. i would recommend using an aem dryflow since they do not utilize oil.

Well my cel just came back on again should i take the filter off and go to the dealer and have them fix it or once i put the other filter on will the cel go off. Not sure what to do its kind of annoying.

put the factory back on and take it to the dealer and have them run a check on your light. that is going to be the only way to take car of it. CEL's dont just magicly go away

with it coming on and off. it dont have to be on for them to pull the code. your computer stored all error code info on it till you flash its memory of error codes.