I started this new thread to document the build of my Anglia Street Rod.

Copying old text only to start the thread

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I am installing an LSJ 2.0 l supercharged Ecotec in my 1953 Anglia (copied from New Member Checkin)



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Check out these curb weights

2008 Cobalt SS turbo 2975 pounds
2008 Solstice GXP 2948 pounds
1953 Anglia 1400 pounds

By the way, my Anglia in stock form has approx. 30 hp and a top speed of 47 mph.

Attached is a pictures of what a modified Anglia looks like - somewhat faster than mine ...

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Anybody that would drive a 90 inch wheelbase, 42 inch trackwidth, gazillion hp Anglia is nuts. See attached utube file for examples ...

http://http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/sh...4958#post74958

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Polished Ecotec oilpan installed - way too much time on my hands (Copied from New Member Checkin) ...

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Motor Mount Part Details:

Part Number Description MSRP

15876977 Bracket $28.81
10345238 Bracket 21.10
10351213 Mount 61.60
21999166 Mount 64.11
11589340 Bolt 3.51 7 Required Brackets to Engine
11516754 Nut 4.25 4 Required

Frame Brackets are not available - POA to frame.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Thanks for your interest. (Copied from Parts Wanted)

As a reminder, I am installing a supercharged Ecotec in a street rod - a 1953 Anglia. While closing the loop on "Parts Wanted" is not quite the same as in "Parts for Sale" when they are sold, I believe my experiences including part numbers will benefit the forum. Please let me know if you are interested in further updates from me.


I have been looking for used parts for awhile - they apparently do not exist - so, I decided to purchase new parts. I checked aftermarket sources like Prothane and Energy Suspension etc., but they have not released urethane mounts for 2.0 Ecotecs yet. Also, the stock GXP mounts are hydraulic (+ expensive) to eliminate powertrain vibration which is a good thing in a street rod. I will use the stock transmission mount as well - no aftermarket parts yet ...

I wanted to get my supercharged Ecotec 2.0 mocked up in my build chassis, even if the motor mount brackets are just tack welded on for now. From there, I can work rearward with the clutch next so I can install the transmission, including transmission mount and crossbar. If necessary, I can leave the clutch out for this stage in the build ...

My clutch experience to date parallels what happened on the motor mounts with aftermarket sources (Spec, Exedy etc.) not having parts available. My spec contact said that the 2.0 clutch assembly is the same as the 2.4 - I am confirming this as I believed they were different. Also, I want to study OEM vs. aftermarket clutch performance and use an aluminum flywheel.

So ... summary to date ... still looking for used clutch assemblies and starters, but considering OEM and aftermarket.

Attached is a picture of my chassis and various parts clutter - LOL !!!

Anglipop

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Motor Mount Installation

The exhaust side went on just fine, but there were two issues with the intake manifold side. The first issue to resolve is converting the two top bolt holes in the block from 8 to 10 mm.

The second issue was not obvious, but there was no boss/ locating hole in the lower engine girdle for RWD motor motors on my Cobalt supercharged engine (and other FWD Ectec applications). Apparently, this addition did not take place until Kappa (Solstice and Sky) 2.0 production began in 2007.

So, stay tuned for my adapter bracket fabrication. The only alternative to the bracket is to upgrade the lower engine girdle with the newer part - not the best approach.

Since work on the intake manifold motor mount adapter bracket is not complete, I installed my timing cover which I polished over the last week or so. Picture 1 shows the timing cover installed. Picture 2 shows the crank pulley installed. I tried installing the idler pulley, but the bolt seemed to bottom out before required torque was reached. Looking at the service manual, my idler pulley looks like the 2.2 l instead of the 2.0 l type. Any suggestions on whether I should go ahead and use the 2.2 idler ? Shorten the bolt or drill the mounting hole about another 1/4 inch and tap it ? Please let me know what you think ...

To keep from going nuts, I have decided to use the "Ecotec Engine" forum as the home for updates on my "How to Install an Ecotec into a Street Rod" thread. I will then provide links to the Cobalt SS forum so you can watch my build progress ...

Attached is a link to my motor mount adapter bracket fab & install progress. There are 2 posts on the bracket and a 3rd post responding to questions.

http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7530&page=2

The plan to homeroom the build progress of my Ecotec/Anglia was brilliant, except for one small detail ...

You have to be a member of the Ecotec Engine forum to see the updates.

Oh no, Mr. Bill ...

Maybe I will have to start my own website or something. Don't ya love it when the plan comes together !

Attached is Part 1 of my Motor Mount Fab and Install:

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I completed the fabrication and installation of the Motor Mount (Intake Manifold side).

The attached pictures (1-5 here, remaining pics in new post) show the details:

Drill and tap 2 upper motor mount holes from 8 to 10 mm to length of bolt.
Drill and tap lower left and upper right adapter bracket holes to same depth as upper motor mount holes above. Shorten bolts to this length. Alternately, you could just keep drilling - NOT ...

Purchase a piece of 1/4 inch 304 stainless steel. At least, that is what the metal store told me it was. I secretly think they sold me tank armor plating and are still laughing at the thought of me working it.

Design a super detailed template of the adapter bracket.

Use super template to outline bracket on piece of stainless.

Picture of real motor mount.

Continuing on ...

Check fit of real motor mount bracket to adapter bracket. Yes, it filts - not really a surprise ...

Use laser beam and depleted uranium nuclear reactor to cut, chizel, gouge, chew, drill and otherwise cut adapter bracket from piece of stainless. Use a 50 ton block sander to polish - I skipped the area where the motor mount bracket attaches. Actually, I was able to do most of the work on my drill press, but had to borrow my neighbor's lathe to do the large holes after going through many drill bits, grinding stones, sanding rolls etc. Polishing was also a bear, but good enough for now. I can super detail later ...

Adapter bracket, motor mount bracket and motor mount installed on engine.

Front view of motor mounts. Say does my super spiffy intake side look a little lower than the other side ? Oh no, Mr. Bill ...

To be continued ...

I came across the Project Plan for my Ecotec in an Anglia build and thought the forum might be interested. Although the file is several years old and progress has been slow, I was pleased to see that I am right on target.

New Age Anglia

Balance
 Must have clear definitions and a good “fit” of Vision, Strategy and Plan

Vision
 What an Anglia would be like if built with today’s components
 Blend of old school car with “Tuner” generation execution
o Bridge project for both traditional streetrodders and today’s youth
 Subtle – but, wolf in sheep’s clothing
 Car will be driver quality – not necessarily high end or showcar

 Sensory Impact.............................Old School........Tuner
o Sight - Original look.............................x
o Sound............................................. ......................x
o Touch, Feel.............................................. ..............x
o Smell............................................. .....x
o Taste............................................. ....x
o Sense (Gut)............................................. ......x

 Upgrade chassis and powertrain with new components
 Maintain low weight (1400 #) for superior power to weight ratio
o Use of lightweight materials Ok, but limit polished and keep hidden
 Project name is parody on New Angle Anglia build by John Diana in HRM
o Could name Green Hornet due to color and sound of an “angry” 4 cylinder


Strategy
 Keep Costs down
o Purchase parts on Ebay or use internet as much as possible
o Also use Wrecking yard, swap meet parts where possible
o Use New, NOS, or low mileage used parts
o Network with Anglia club, local streetrodders and tuners
o Join Ecotec and related forums
 Get inputs from both street rodders and tuners
o Document contributors – parts, tech help, etc
 Definition:
o Original Look: Targeting factory look with “patina”
 Hide the high tech stuff
 Not a rat rod, but no excessive polished billet either
 No ac/heater, radio, insulation, power anything
o May require doing things “the hard way” – that’s Ok Example: IP / gauge build
o Since V8s and V6s would tear up firewall and necessitate a new IP look, powertrain decision was Ecotec 2 liter LSJ supercharged 4 cylinder engine with 5 speed Manual Aisin transmission
 Tuners would start with a 4 cylinder anyway, and probably manual trans
 Long term build
o Keep car running in stock condition while I build up second chassis, eventually
doing a body drop
o Not being in a rush will allow purchase of suitable used parts

Plan

 Stage Build into small manageable sub-projects to keep:
o Emphasis on Planning vs. Execution
o Enthusiasm up
o Parts costs down
o Street rodders and tuners engaged
 Expect new/unusual problems vs. traditional build

thats pretty kool man good luck :)

Cam covers polished and installed ...

Also purchased an Anglia phantom convertible fiberglass body ...

Received my Anglia Convertible body and mounted in on my frame with the help of some 2x4s. Attached is a picture, with my stock '53 in the background probably wondering what is going on ...