Brakes, exhuast & oher misc. crap - Chevy Cobalt SS Forum : Chevrolet Cobalt SS Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2006, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Brakes, exhuast & oher misc. crap

Hey everyone....

Well after talking to the dealer today this is where I stand...

1) Brakes: After going thru the brake pulse and repair 3 times, they have now decided to replace ALL FOUR rotors.

2) Shifting: They have driven the car and they said they "reflashed" the computer and there was a couple files that needed updating, but that none of them were cuasing the issue. They drove it around, and couldn't get it to repeat the problem.

3) Exhaust rattle: While they said they couldn't get the rattle to occurr, they noticed a heat shield above the muffler that was close, so they re-adjusted it and again... drove it and still didnt find anything...

4) Wheels: The service manager has yet to check them and see what is what. I'll have to find that out and let you know tomorrow.

5) Alignment: Still no word on that one as well. Have to get back to you.

Well.... shuold be interesting to see what they say.

Later
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2006, 04:24 PM
 
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I have a theory on the brakes for both the Cobalt's and RL's... I'm not sure if it's accurate though. I've been told by several people that it's not. However, when you go in for new rotors. Remind them, as politely as possible, that brake caliper guide pins only requrie 25 lbs of tq. So far, there seems to be a pattern with people taking the car in for 'grooved' rotors, and ending up with a never ending set of warped ones after that.

My new Stillens felt warped after about two weeks of normal driving. Where my stock rotors were perfect, minus the grooves. 3 times I tore it apart retorquing everything. Still there was this 'grinding' noise when I would hit the brakes. Noticed that the caliper would only 'flex' in toward the rotor, but had no room to flex 'out'. So I used the proper tq specs, and the rotors stopped making any sort of noise at all instantly. However, I have a feeling that they're still warped from the prevous beatings, or my pads are still uneven. The pulsing is getting better each day for the last 4 or 5 now.

This is just an early hypothesis. I've had a few people tell me that it won't cause it, and one person that told me that he torqued the hell outta his a year ago and has never had any problems. However, it's worth a try. It would suck for it to be something as simple as tq specs. I could be dead wrong though.

I've never used a tq wrench on brakes in my life before this point.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-13-2006, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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I can see where that would or could make in impact on how everything moves down there. I WILL ask about that.

I've owned a few of these small bodied GM cars... a 91 Cavalier RS, a 94 V6 Sunbird, and this SS. I have freinds that have quite a few Z24s and cavaliers. ALL of them are replacing rotors and / or pads every year regardless of the milage.

I've always felt ( just my opinion ) that a big reason for this is that GM has always looked at these cars as "throwaway" cars. THey're the bottom feeder cars in their line, and they don't do the engineering that it probably SHOULD have. That's not saying that they are putting junk on them, just that the parts aren't up to the task.

These front drivers are doing ALL the work... steering, driving, braking, accelerating and allllll the weight transfers that comes with it.

Another thing I was thinking of..... as some on the corvette forum have talked about.... the torqing of the lug nuts! Improper torqing and UNEVEN torqing of the nuts can lead to the wheel not being balanced, and therfore putting uneven stresses on the hub, caliper, and brakes.

Not that this is what's happening here. Just something I've picked up. I'm a friggin sponge when it comes to this stuff.

OK... too long a read! sorry to all that are still reading this.

Spooner.. I'l let yuo know what I find out.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-14-2006, 12:47 PM
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i too am now in the market for new rotors. i took the car in today for the pulsation when slowing down on the highway and the damn squeaking and they told me i need new pads and tht they need to cut the rotors. i took the car in maybe 5,000 miles ago because the brakes were squeaking really bad. they looked at the brakes and told me that the rotors were fine and that the pads were 95% life and they attributed the squeaking to brake dust buildup, yet as soon as i left the dealer they were still squeaking. now they want to charge me 100 bucks to cut the rotors plus the cost of new pads. i told the i was going aftermarket for the pads (ebc) and that i would think about what to do with the rotors. if they cut them, they're just going to get warped again soon anyway. i'm gonna go see my mechanic today and see what he says about new rotors. as for aftermarket rotors, anyone have any suggestions?


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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-14-2006, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well, since they replaced all 4 rotors today, I will leave things as is for now. By the next time I need new ones, I WILL be going aftermarket. SO, I'll see what is out there then...

OK>>>>>

The ECU was reflashed to help the shifting problem. They couldn't replicate the problem, but they told me they have it on record, so if I DO have problems later, I will have it on paper.

The alignment was in spec, and they swapped the left and right wheels up front and now it pulls to the right, so they say there is an issue with the tire(s), and that is not going to be under warranty sicne ti's a "wear item". They also said that when I get new tires, to bring it in, and they'll check the alignment again to be sure it was the tires. ( Didn't charge me for that )

THey reposistioned the exhuast heat shield over the muffler. They said that while they couldn't replicate the rattle, they said it was very tight there, so it might have been doing it from time to time.


THe wheels...... The service manager said that it appeared to be cuased by damage, not a manufacturing issue. While I don't neccarily agree with it, I do admit there was a few spots that were done by normal use. If that is how fragile these wheels are after 20K miles, I hate to see them in another 50K, so this summer when new tires go on, there will be new wheels as well.


At least they finally got back to me to let me know they ARE a GMPP dealer and can do the stage kits.

Later all and hope this helps others if they have the same things.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-15-2006, 11:22 PM
 
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I've had problems with my rotors warping recently, so the other day I slipped the

trans into neutral and the car came to a static stop. I took it to my dealer and

they adjusted my cruise/ stop light switch. The brakes don't drag anymore. I'll

see what they have to say about my rotors on Monday.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLM1 View Post
I've had problems with my rotors warping recently, so the other day I slipped the

trans into neutral and the car came to a static stop. I took it to my dealer and

they adjusted my cruise/ stop light switch. The brakes don't drag anymore. I'll

see what they have to say about my rotors on Monday.
Rotors have a thickness rating that if they wear beyond this point than they are thinner than specs allow for for proper stopping safety and heat transfer.

Last edited by CObalt88; 06-14-2010 at 09:01 PM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-14-2010, 03:16 PM
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The exhaust rattle is coming from the Catalytic converter that GM has recalled. Possible that it was the exhaust shield but more that it was the cat.

The warping of the rotors is normal wear and tear so that means they obviously do not warranty that. And that could be caused by extreme braking or hill driving....

The stock wheels are very fragile that is why I had them powder coated. And as far as the alignment, yes if the vehicle pulls after adjustment to say the left, then you cross the front tires and it pulls to right, then it is a tire pull. Very common and only goes away when you purchase new tires.
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