How to install a signifigantly larger sub in stock box - Chevy Cobalt SS Forum : Chevrolet Cobalt SS Forums
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Old 01-21-2006, 01:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
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How to install a signifigantly larger sub in stock box

just thought id share with you how i modified my stock box and put a 3" deeper sub into the box. i used a JL Audio 10w3v2 subwoofer with a JL Audio e1400 amplifier. AMAZING improvement, amazing. after you do it, you just put the bass on a little less than half, and you have a completely crossed-over highs/lows system! here are the instructions to install a new subwoofer:

(NOTE: If not using an aftermarket amp, you MUST replace subwoofer with a dual voice coil subwoofer, single voice coil subwoofers are not compatible with factory amp)

Things needed: weather stripping (if using a sub. as deep or deeper than the 10w3v2), ratchet w/ 10mm socket, long socket extender, dremel tool w/ rotoary cuting bit, drill/screwdriver, ductape and a piece of plastic.

Time required: anywhere from 1/2 hour to 3 hours, depending on sub dimensions.

Step 1: Remove factory box from car. This requires a 10mm socket w/ a long extender(perferably a deep socket). There are 4 bolts that hold the box to the car. After they are removed, the box will slide right out. Next, remove the clip on the top of the box which holds the speaker wire. Then, disconnect the harness going into the box. Now the box is free and can be taken out of the trunk.

Step Two: Remove the subwoofer from the box. Take the screws off that surround the front of the subwoofer. Then, remove the bolt on the back of the box, directly in the middle. Next, cut the speaker wire from the sub.(it is soldered on, once removed can be reheated with a solder tool and cleaned up for reuse of stock sub) Now remove the subwoofer.

Step Three: Now the fun begins!!!! First, start off by taking the box apart. Turn the box over, and remove the many little Phillips head screws. Then the box will pull apart. Now, take the dremel tool and start removing the plastic cross-members, which are the many little "walls" that run on the rear of the box. This allows the magnet of the new subwoofer to fit in the box. (make sure you only cut the neccesary for your particular subwoofer) Next, you must cut the support for the stock magnent(you removed the bolt from it in step two). You will then need to cover the hole created by the cutting of the supprort. I used a piece of plastic and some clear tape. Now drop your subwoofer in and make sure you have enough room. If not, continue cutting cross-members. (NOTE: some subwoofers may require trimming of the sides of the opening to fit!)

Step 4: Now, if necessary, lay the weather stripping down arround the edge of the front to gain an extra 1/2 inch of clearance. (If using an aftermarket amp, remove the factory speaker wire and harness clip. This will be reused. Run new wires from the sub through the little hole in the top,where factory wire was) Then, connect the old speaker wire from the old subwoofer, to the new subwoofer. Now, screw the subwoofer into the front box piece. Then, put the back and front pieces together. You are now ready to place the box in the car!!!

Step 5: Repeat step one, just replace the box into the car. Then, connect the harness clips together(removed in step one, speaker wire harness). You now have much better, cleaner sound!! Remember, to get awesome sound, just add an amp to your set-up.

PICTURES ARE ATTACHED!!!
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Old 01-21-2006, 02:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Is that whole thing just thin plastic??? If so it not gonna sound all that great.
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Old 01-21-2006, 03:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clevelander2002
Is that whole thing just thin plastic??? If so it not gonna sound all that great.
ya it is just plastic. had a 10w3v2 in my car with a 700 watt amp. sounded awesome. but, at extremely high levels of sound, with a really powerful sub, it would sound pretty weak
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Old 01-21-2006, 03:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelleyperformance
ya it is just plastic. had a 10w3v2 in my car with a 700 watt amp. sounded awesome. but, at extremely high levels of sound, with a really powerful sub, it would sound pretty weak
See how much it takes to blow it apart
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Old 01-23-2006, 12:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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You just ruined that box!! The only reason that box didn't sound like shit was those internal plastic crossbraces stiffened it. The walls of that box are so thin your bass is going to be distorted as hell. There is such a thing as a reverse mount you know. All you had to do was take out all the screws, mount your sub from the inside out, and silicone all the holes. I did this with an alpine type-r and I'm pushing it with 1600W at 2 ohms. Also, you don't need a dual voice coil woofer; just simply run both inputs into a line-in converter before your amp(they aren't left and right signals they're mono but you can treat them the same). You could actually use these factory-amped wires to power other speakers. My reccomendation to you would be to buy or build another box if you want good sound.

ps. "good sound" does not mean loud distorted rattling, our stock box is capable of crisp, clear, responsive bass.
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Old 01-23-2006, 07:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NM06ss
You just ruined that box!! The only reason that box didn't sound like shit was those internal plastic crossbraces stiffened it. The walls of that box are so thin your bass is going to be distorted as hell. There is such a thing as a reverse mount you know. All you had to do was take out all the screws, mount your sub from the inside out, and silicone all the holes. I did this with an alpine type-r and I'm pushing it with 1600W at 2 ohms. Also, you don't need a dual voice coil woofer; just simply run both inputs into a line-in converter before your amp(they aren't left and right signals they're mono but you can treat them the same). You could actually use these factory-amped wires to power other speakers. My reccomendation to you would be to buy or build another box if you want good sound.

ps. "good sound" does not mean loud distorted rattling, our stock box is capable of crisp, clear, responsive bass.
ok first off, i had the box for over 5 months, it sounded great, you can ask like 15 customers or the guy who bought the car . also, the reason i said you cant mount a single-coil is OHMS. put those wires together, and now you have changed the ohms. this would cause some subs to react badly(sound-wise), and could damage your equiptment. also, you cant use those wires for speakers, THEY ARE CROSSED OVER to low-frequencies. just research before you detest.
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Old 02-02-2006, 11:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 146
I dont see why you just dont build a better box. Why mess up a perfectly good box when you can just build a new good box for cheap.
chevycobaltowner is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2006, 08:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 245
What is the stock subs OHM rateing?

Later
Badmunky is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-05-2006, 02:51 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 30
the sub is tapped off your 6x9's thats way its a dual 2 ohm vc
taKE IT OUT COMPLETLY AND YOULL SEE THE DIFFERENCE YOUR REAR SPEAKERS WILL SOUND A WHOLE LOT CLEANER
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Old 03-05-2006, 04:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 53
to add a different amp to a new sub do u have to use a line out converter or does our stock unit already have rca outputs????
moose is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
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