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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Help with power source

About 2weeks ago I picked up the spal power window kit installed it worked fine. Well about a day later I blew a fuse I put a fuse tap over a 10amp for windshieldwiper on the same I have my x50 on. Well then I noticed I put it on the wrong side the windows need 25amps and it was running through the 10amp.

So then I figured I would hook it up to the second power outlet behind the shifter then a few days go by and I blew another fuse. Well I wasent paying full attention and noticed that the 2nd power outlet also goes with trunk release is on a 20amp ok so I know why I blew it. After that I put it back on the fuse tap for windshield wipers but reversed it so that it was not going through the 10amp fuse.

I pull up in front of my friends up put the windows up and then I hear the dinging and "Service Airbags" and "Power Steering" message came up. I turn the car off check a couple of fuses go to start it notthing it was the ignition fuse that blew and I have no idea how it did.

Now I have a wiretap on the power source going into the fusebox itself but I have 1 problem with this its an always on and I also don't know if I will blow anything else. So does anyone know where I can get the 12volt source unfused so it can handle 25amps. And also does anyone know why I blew the ignition fuse when I only had a fuse tap on the windsheildwipers.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 06:44 PM
 
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dude, unwire what you have done, unplug the battery and let it reset for 20 min. plug the battery back in. that SHOULD take care of the dtc going awall.
you cant wire it in with the fuse panels. as far as i noticed, you can only do it with the wipers, BUT, you will still have a huge draw, especially doing 2 windows at once. honestly, its not worth the pain to add these kits, they never work right and not only that, it gives the car a major chance to f up!

if you dont want to or cant take the kit back, try wiring it to the battery directly with a fuse on that line. its not the best way, may still void your warrenty. but alot better then having your car go nuts. what happened was when you wired it in, it must have jumped and shorted into the system. when i wired my stereo dtc kit, i did the same thing. no one know how i did it, but the same thing happened. either which case the dtc isnt to be messed with, it has the air bag, power stearing, dtc, stereo and air bags all bundeled intogether. also if i remember the wiper is only a 10 or 15 amp draw which automaticly puts you well above.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-03-2007, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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The dtc's were gone once I replaced the fuse that was not the problem. Currently I have my x50 hardwired in and I have power locks and keyless entry in off different power sources and theres been no problem with that. Problem was me blowing fuses because I don't have enough amps going to the power window system. The wiper system is a 10amp but if you put the fuse tap before the fuse it should give you what you need but I guess I was wrong.
Right now its working fine on the power source that I have at least for now I have 2more ideas before I give up and I think I should make sure I only put one down at once like you said. If all else fails I'll take the kit off

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 12:51 PM
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Run a fused power lead directly from the battery or other direct (+) source to a relay that is activated by another lead from the ignition or other accesory source. This will be the best way to get 25 amps to the windows, etc. only when accesory power is active.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Well right now I have it to the power lead into the inside fuse box and has worked fine since I posted this. It is an always on but I will give it a little longer to make sure everything goes right then I will see if I can do it for car on power only.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-07-2007, 12:22 PM
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It works because it is unfused haha. I highly suggest running a relay, it will be much safer and not ghetto.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-08-2007, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Well 2 times before I thought it was unfused but it turns out it was so I got it right now Ok so pretty much take my relay and run one 12v in one way then the ingnition 12volt the other so it turns on when I turn the key? I already have a few relays so let me just see if I can do it right.

Always on 12v to red?
White goes to ingnition 12v?
Black to ground
Blue to power windows?
I'm a little unsure which to do so I'm going to leave it alone till I know which is right. Thanks for the help.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-08-2007, 07:17 PM
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Here is the wiring diagram for a typical automotive relay. I can't tell you what color is what, but I'm sure the relay has the poles labeled by number.

Go from battery (or where you are grabbing your power for the window) to #30. Connect #86 to your accessory power and ground 85 to complete the turn on circuit. Connect #87 to the power input for your window. Make sure the window is grounded and you are good to go.

87a would be used if you wanted something on only when the relay does not recieve power from teh 85-86 circuit.

Let me know if you have anymore questions.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks I'll give it a try thurs or friday, I'm in class right now. I might have a few questions but I'll come back if I do.
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