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(pioneer system)

where specifically can i tag 12v switched for power for an aftermarket radio? went to the ignition harness and only small wires. tagged the brown to try it and the airbag and brake lights came on and the tach and info display stopped working.

i know the pinout is different than the standard aftermarket harness, i got it working/speakers and polarity hooked up fine. the tech tip i read said there are 2 amp turn on leads: one positive and one negative(hooked up with a relay). is this correct (it works fine if i power up the radio by tying red/yellow together but the main problem is where to get my accy source from
 

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Did you purchase the aftermarket wiring harness that will plug into the factory plug? Should give you all of the wires you need to convert. If you're aftermarket unit is powered you are also going to have to by-pass the factory amp or purchase a kit to do so. Let me know how the aftermarket looks.
 

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Registry was awful easy... Anyone sucessfully added an aftermarket radio to their cobalt? I'm not worried about DID (used to be Driver Information Center).

What adapter harness has been used to convert GM Lan heads to aftermarket? Sounddomain hasn't given a straight answer in a quick search and I've yet to look elsewhere.

However, I've got a Pioneer DEHP 8600 MP that I can't bear to part with, so yeah. Any help is appriciated.

P.S. GM tech of 3 years. I know my way and have all schematics required to make my own circuits. I just need an adapter harness for the chime and to keep the BCM quiet.
 

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I picked up the wiring harness and the mounting kit from crutchfield for pretty cheap. My problem is how do I bypass the factory pioneer amp? The subs work when on CD but when the radio plays all the speakers work and the subs don't .
 

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I cut the wires and spliced them to the wiring kit that hooks to the back of my sony head unit. I got a wire color diagram off google.com and i matched up all the wires by looking in the trunk and finding which speakers in the back had which and i matched up the door speakers by pulling back the rubber plug and then i figured out which wire was the power.... and i couldnt figure out how to do the driver info wire so i took it to a car audio shop and they hooked it to a fuse they stuck on the steering column. the stereo works great. and i still have all the info when i push the buttons. the driver info wire doesnt have to be hooked to any wires it just needs to be tucked away so its not hitting anything.
 

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well I work at Best Buy in the install bay, I haven't seen a CSS yet but almost all of the newer GMs are usin that sort of radio setup. It doesnt use an accessory wire to power the radio, it uses the data bus wire to let the radio know when to turn on. Then it just jumps 12V over from the constant wire. You can get a harness/module that will utilize that databus wire in the same way but it runs $118 at Best Buy!! Its prettty high, but if I were gonna wire up an aftermarket radio in my car I would only do it the right way!!
 

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It is quite simple to put a deck in an ss (you will have to have A t-block style harness). And there is no 12 volt switch lead on some newer gms/chevys, you have to find your own. Either go to the fuse box or I found an ignition lead in the hvac controls under the radio. The t-block style is so that you can relocate the factory radio to the trunk (or were ever you want to put it). If you do not relocate the factory radio many functions of the car will be lost (such as locks, possibly gauge functions, door chime and various other databus things). YOU MUST RELOCATE THE FACTORY RADIO . If you have only a plug that has straight leads (no jumpers no extra factory plug) then you were given the wrong plug. The basic plug will only work on base model cobalts without power anything. The best kits # is bha20004t and the base cobalts takes a bha2003. And american international # is gwh-22 and the base model takes gwh-416. Hope this helps everyone out.
 

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oneoffconcepts said:
It is quite simple to put a deck in an ss (you will have to have A t-block style harness). And there is no 12 volt switch lead on some newer gms/chevys, you have to find your own. Either go to the fuse box or I found an ignition lead in the hvac controls under the radio. The t-block style is so that you can relocate the factory radio to the trunk (or were ever you want to put it). If you do not relocate the factory radio many functions of the car will be lost (such as locks, possibly gauge functions, door chime and various other databus things). YOU MUST RELOCATE THE FACTORY RADIO . If you have only a plug that has straight leads (no jumpers no extra factory plug) then you were given the wrong plug. The basic plug will only work on base model cobalts without power anything. The best kits # is bha20004t and the base cobalts takes a bha2003. And american international # is gwh-22 and the base model takes gwh-416. Hope this helps everyone out.
You don't need to relocate the factory Radio. The non "T" harness is recomended for the cobalts. The "T" harness is needed for radios that have the driver information center and driver options in the radio. The Cobalt has them in the gauge cluster. I have been running around with an aftermarket radio without the "T" for a week now with no issues. I drive an '05.

Here is my write up:

http://www.cobaltss.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2461
 

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actually my bad you may be right the 2 cobalt ss I did were special ordered, and had functions that were ran through the radio. I forgot that they were both special orders with many different functions from the normal ss.
:D
 

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no, but there are controllers that can be programed by the remote of your h/u. CoBizzle mentioned it in another thread. Try PM'ing him if you are interested.
 
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