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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, its me, Skip, again. So I was driving my car around today for a little joyride, when all of a sudden, my car shook violently and there was a loud boom. Ever since then, my check engine light has been flashing and my car sputters badly. It sounds like its about to explode when I go into VTEC.

What should I do?
 

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actionjackson said:
Hey guys, its me, Skip, again. So I was driving my car around today for a little joyride, when all of a sudden, my car shook violently and there was a loud boom. Ever since then, my check engine light has been flashing and my car sputters badly. It sounds like its about to explode when I go into VTEC.

What should I do?
Sell it and buy a real car dude!
 

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When he "goes into VTEC" makes sense. I hear a lot of people say that or when they "hit VTEC". VTEC isn't active at every RPM, only above a certain RPM. The cpu senses when the car is at full throttle (or at least heavy throttle) and above that certain RPM (not sure exactly what RPM that is: JDMCivic might be able to tell you) and it increases the valve timing and lift to create more power. It also makes a "meaner" :mad: engine note!!!Same thing as Ecotec, VVT, etc.

P.S. Not sure if I'm 100% correct but Im sure JDMCivic could clean it up if I have any mistakes, Im pretty sure thats the general idea though.
 

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action, have you noticed it being louder than normal under normal driving conditoins? Could be an exhaust leak or somethin... Dont know why it would have banged though. Maybe it backfired. But I dont think that would explain the vibrations.
 

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CoBIZZLE said:
action, have you noticed it being louder than normal under normal driving conditoins? Could be an exhaust leak or somethin... Dont know why it would have banged though. Maybe it backfired. But I dont think that would explain the vibrations.
That might be a backfire. And is the shakeing all the time or is it off and on and is it only during acceleration or deceleration or idle. Sorry for all of the questions i have alot of freinds who know alot about Honda's and Acura's. Plus i know alot of auto mecanics.
 

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actionjackson said:
Hey guys, its me, Skip, again. So I was driving my car around today for a little joyride, when all of a sudden, my car shook violently and there was a loud boom. Ever since then, my check engine light has been flashing and my car sputters badly. It sounds like its about to explode when I go into VTEC.

What should I do?
I hope you're not one of those fake RSX owners trying to make us look bad. I don't know why you'd be asking on THIS site... Anyway, if this is truly happening, bring it into the dealer and they'll pull the engine OBD-II code for you (likely for a price). I don't know if you're out of your warantee period yet but get it checked out.

Also, it helps to know what you did prior to this happening. It also might help to "reset" your ECU but this doesn't. You can't simply disconnect the battery. I think you've got to find the right fuse to pull. What kind of gas did you put in? Did you overrev when downshifting? Did you have a tune-up or bring it in for maintenance lately? Maybe a sparkplug's not firing? I'm not even going to speculate on what happened. Get it checked out.


impalass96 said:
when u go into vtech......what the f*uck does that mean?
The RSX-S enters VTEC (no H) at 5800 RPM. It leaves VTEC at 5600 RPM. VTEC is just Honda's way of saying variable valve timing. It uses different cam lobes in VTEC. Essentially, it's entering performance mode.
 

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If your CEL is flashing, you usually have a misfire. It also means you are punishing your cat and o2 sensors.

Don't drive it with the flashing cel, and definitely don't engage VTEC. Stress on cat and o2 sensors plus added stress from VTEC isn't a good combination.

Try to get it to someone that can scan your OBD-II. If the CEL is blinking, don't rag on your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Scourge said:
I hope you're not one of those fake RSX owners trying to make us look bad. I don't know why you'd be asking on THIS site... Anyway, if this is truly happening, bring it into the dealer and they'll pull the engine OBD-II code for you (likely for a price). I don't know if you're out of your warantee period yet but get it checked out.

Also, it helps to know what you did prior to this happening. It also might help to "reset" your ECU but this doesn't. You can't simply disconnect the battery. I think you've got to find the right fuse to pull. What kind of gas did you put in? Did you overrev when downshifting? Did you have a tune-up or bring it in for maintenance lately? Maybe a sparkplug's not firing? I'm not even going to speculate on what happened. Get it checked out.
I posted here because I feel a sense of security around you guys. The other forums are larger and everyone is so pushy and arrogant.

What is OBD-II?
 

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JDMCivic said:
Yes you did.

Scourge, being as he has an RSX, would probably be able to answer the specific questions better.

Thanks for the confidence in me. Unfortunately I have no idea what's going on. I gave a few suggestions of stuff to look at or think about. We don't know the whole story plus this is something the dealer will need to look at anyway. Sounds pretty serious.


actionjackson said:
I posted here because I feel a sense of security around you guys. The other forums are larger and everyone is so pushy and arrogant.

What is OBD-II?
It's still worth a shot. You can't be afraid to ask questions. The worst someone could say, is "SEARCH!!!" but your situation sounds pretty unique.

OBD-II covers 3 different diagnostic protocols. Same connector is used to grab your OBD-II data. All cars made in and after 1996 have OBD-II. Means you can go to most tune-up places and they can tell you what the computer believes is wrong. See this site for more info.
 
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