yeah i was kind of wondering if i should go for an intake first or not. I guess ill go ahead and do that to begin with. thanks man.MY GTP 8 U said:Have you done intake and exhaust work yet? If not do those first, then do a pulley to see maximum gains and be safe as well. Do atleast a 2.5" catback and a cold air induction kit, whether it be home made or an aftermarket unit, and then I would recommend colder spark plugs, although Im not exactly sure what plugs you would have to buy. After you have those three done go for the pulley, and you should probably see a 30-40whp gain, if not more. I dont know if anyone is really sure yet about the gains with any mods, so be the first to find out!
yeah all i ordered was the drop in K&N and it comes pre-cut to fit the airbox, so i wont have to cut the airbox or anything.mean green said:If you are going to do an intake be sure to do one that is completely sealed off from hot engine air. A guy on one of the forums I visit did a few pulls on a Mustang dyno with a hot engine air sucking cone filter intake and the factory air box. He actually lost power using an open cone filter vs the stock air box. I'm running with the stock air box minus the silencers, a drop in K & N filter and a 2" hose running from the front of my GT up to the fenderwell hole for cold air. That and a 2 1/2" catback single flow through exhaust and my modified GT loves it.
Here's the post.
The pic to the right of his GT is what happens when you warm up the tires at the track with trac control on.
They do weigh more (over 3200 lbs) and have a different tranny (don't know the gearing diffs but the SRT 4 is probably better) and wind drag is a lot on the GT. With the mods I have I'm in the low 14's. My buddy who is more modded out performance wise than I am did a 13.82. One guy with a stock GT and a 75 shot of nos did a 12.95 in the 1/4.CoBIZZLE said:Mean green, are the GT Cruisers slower than the SRT's due to any possible weight, gearing, wind drag, etc. disadvantages??
Thanks, I got one. SRT 4 forums are a great place for info. A lot of the GT gearheads go there.don spiro said:If you can, get a 180* t-stat. It will help you alot on keeping the KR down.
I haven't driven a SS yet so I can only guess. It's been a year and a half since mine was stock and I can barely remember what it was like. GT has higher hp/torque but is heavier. SS has lower hp/torque but is lighter. I would guess stock against stock would be best driver. I do know a stock GT made the mistake of running against me on the freeway a few weeks ago. Wasn't even close. After I slowed down he did a fly by making my wife laugh. Oh well, I hijacked this thread enough. Sorry.CoBIZZLE said:What would you say GT vs. SS?? Driver's race?
Agreed, but don't forget, unlike the L67, the LSJ is equipped with a Laminova air-to-water charge air heat exchanger system, integral to the intake manifold- that includes a high capacity electric circulation pump, 2 quarts of closed system coolant, and a separate intercooler in front of the radiator. While I certainly don’t dispute there needs to be concern for potential engine damage when someone "pullies-down" without adequate preparation. (A:F and timing) this system appears to have more than adequate thermal capacity to handle additional boost up to the 2 liter's mechanical limits and dramatically extends the "event horizon" of detonation induced engine damage.Elk County GS said:Just be careful when trying to increase the boost on these roots blower cars. Take it from GTP 8 U and myself since we have experienced the pros and cons of modding GM blown cars. A 180 T-stat is a good thing and one range colder plugs with the intake and exhaust mods. But nobody will know what size pulley is safe without scanning. You want 0 KNOCK! If you are having the PCM pull timing on you on a warm day with a 3.25" pulley, you are looking for trouble. Chipping pistons is just one of the issues you will experience.
If it was to allow us to use regular than it failed, the car is a premium only car.Elk County GS said:I know about the IC that you guys have, but it doesn't appear to be as effective as some of the aftermarket stuff out there for the L67. I have been hearing that the purpouse of your IC is to allow for the car to use regular octane. Maybe you guys can overspeed the SC as long as you use 92-94 octane? My point is that you never know without scanning these things.
Good info, ***. I hope to help out a local Cobalt SS achieve his modding needs, but not without doing it right regardless of the small IC in place already. No KR is the only way to do it right .
That kind of scares me then. We (L67's) are also required to use premium since we are not IC'd even when stock. Bad gas has been the cause of a few failures on modded L67 cars. I caution the use of smaller pulleys without this basic list of supporting mods:clownhair said:If it was to allow us to use regular than it failed, the car is a premium only car.
The compression ratio is kinda high on these cars for a boosted engine so that is probably a good reason why premium is still needed. I am using the stock thermostat and plugs as of right now and on the wideband at WOT it stays fairly steady at 11.9 A/F and the autotap is showing 0* of knock.Elk County GS said:That kind of scares me then. We (L67's) are also required to use premium since we are not IC'd even when stock. Bad gas has been the cause of a few failures on modded L67 cars. I caution the use of smaller pulleys without this basic list of supporting mods:
1. cooler plugs
2. cooler T-stat (180 or 160)
3. free flowing intake (cold air induction/fender well induction)
4. better flowing exhaust
6. SCAN TOOL!
Your cars are very impressive and great looking to boot. For those of you that haven't had a SC'd car before, do things carefully so you don't end up driving a rental car while you wait for the SS to get repaired
I am on this forum because I need to learn more about your SS and the LSJ before we start modding them up this way.