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Discussion Starter #141
Okay well id like to make a donation for the poster for one :) and to have my name on the car :) and for three just because i feel your pain throughout the whole process you have been through so should i just make the donation thru your website or what?
The poster will be a blast, I can hardly wait to do the smoke show. :eek::cool:

The easiest way is to use the button on the website as it is already to use and PayPal doesn't eat up too much because it is for donations. I appreciate your interst. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #143
Okay, I have been waiting a while to get the time to do a couple of updates but work/overtime has been really killing me lately. That is the price I have to pay to keep the wife happy which keeps the project rolling forward.

One of the biggest concerns that has plagued the project has been the front suspension and cross member. There has been considerable time spent looking at how this car was going to track correctly whether it be on the race track or on the street. Keep in mind that originally this project was going to have a 4 cyl Ecotec and it is easier to see where the concerns come from. While the Ecotec was parts of the plan there were still issues with the front suspension/steering and at one point I was told that that I had to choose, either track or street. As most of you know, I chose option C; street & track.

Largely due to the many years of Resnick's racing experience, I have been benefitting from his large resources of contacts and knowledge. With Resnick knowing many places to get certain components, he found the cross member/double wishbone suspension that we are now using in the car. These parts were in no way designed with my project in mind so while Resnick chose the kit, he knew that he would have to make this kit fit. I have some pictures with the new parts before and after install, as well as pictures of what the front suspension/cross member looked like before Resnick started cutting and changing things.

While the pictures show the differences it is hard to see all of the technical components of changing the front end. The car has been squared within .01 of an inch. Resnick was only able to get 104.5"s for the wheel base. Anything longer would have required redoing the front end style extension similar to the FWD Race Cobalts. That expense isn't an option so I will live with the 104.5"s. The dual wishbone suspension will allow me to drive this on the street and not struggle with turning. The new cross member also allows for a positive number scrub level, which is needed to pass a government inspection.

I believe I have already mentioned that because I bought skinnier Weld Racing Prostars for the front and a set of Prostars with a larger back space for the back, I will now use the originally purchased Prostars for my street wheels. Considering that I am old as dirt, these style wheels will do me just fine for the street use. Heck, while the wife and I watched the Rock in Faster last night I told her that the wheels on his Chevelle SS looked just like mine. :lol:

Anyways enough jammering, here are the pictures. The pics that have the Paint lines are the original parts that Resnick cut out and replaced. The other pics are the new parts installed. The install isn't complete yet as Resnick figures another 2-3 days to have it all working seemlessly.

Thanks for caring enough to keep following along with me,

Rod :)











Today I was dropping off the 4.5" skinnies for the front of the car. These tires are narrower and 1" taller than the ones I had before. These differences make a big difference in how the car sits as well as in how it will track on the drag strip.

While I was at the shop I saw a few more items that were done and some being worked on. The frame cross member is completely installed and all of the suspension parts are installed. The steering rack had to to be changed as the Mustang 2 didn't properly. Instead we are using the steering rack from the 79-93 Mustang. Everything looks clean and very strong. The workmanship is great and the complete setup looks as if it belongs there. The suspension geometry is dead on and the car is all squared up. The suspension's articulation is also spot on and this car truly will be able to be streeted. We have a minimum 5.5"s of clearance under the car so it will easily pass government inspection.

The stock dash has been fitted into the car and is almost complete. We do have the issue of the dash being moved further back into the passenger area but Resnick has a plan to deal with it. By the time we are done, I will have as stock of a look/feel as possible considering all of the modifications done to the interior.

Resnick is now working on getting the windsheild wipers and the emergency break mounted. It won't be too long before we are ready to start wiring and doing the body work.

Today was really positive as Resnick and Grant (the other mechanic) were both talking about having this on the track soon as race season is fast approaching. Finally I am becomeng more hopefull of driving this car soon. ;) :nuts:





 

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Discussion Starter #146

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Discussion Starter #147
THE CAR IS NOW HOME!!!

Finally I have the car sitting in my garage and I can finally start my part of the work. The engine will be ready to assemble in 10 days so the faster I accomplish my tasks, the faster I get to the track/street. :D
 

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I dont want to sound like iam bashing you or anything i think what you are doing is awsome. But wouldnt it be easyer to use a sky rear end. I mean there the same motor and there RWD.
 

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I dont think that rear end would be strong enough to support all that hp he is putting down from that lsx procharged....

It would be awesome to own a converted Cobalt SS FWD=>RWD by taking the parts off the sky or solstice, but it is limited to amount of torque it can withstand.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
I dont want to sound like iam bashing you or anything i think what you are doing is awsome. But wouldnt it be easyer to use a sky rear end. I mean there the same motor and there RWD.
I dont think that rear end would be strong enough to support all that hp he is putting down from that lsx procharged....

It would be awesome to own a converted Cobalt SS FWD=>RWD by taking the parts off the sky or solstice, but it is limited to amount of torque it can withstand.
What he ^ said. Once the choice to go with a high HP output it wouldn't matter if I used the LSJ or the LSX because the Sky/Solstice just weren't going to handle what I plan on putting down. Of one thing most racers agree upon is that a Ford (' is pretty much bullet proof. :)
 

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holy hell, victory your car still isn't done!? i haven't been on here in a few years and logged in to see if you had any completed pics after talking about your build with a buddy the other day. How much time do you have into this thing now?
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Resurrection of victory_red_SS goes RWD

The project is not finished nor is it dead and buried. I now smile more than frown as I continue to move forward on a project that has been 13 years in the making. Many crappy things have happened but I will write the whole story in time and post it up on the cars website which I also recently resurrected from the abyss.

I know there isn't much traffic on this forum but it's still one of the first places I wrote about this project.

Here is an update that I have held of on while I waited for some information from a couple of the companies I am working with. During the time I have been accumulating parts and planning what I can do to keep moving forward. Just a heads up, this is just a final mock up with a dummy block, this is not my LSX motor, more news on that later on.

I have had many one step forward and then wait for new/missing/correct parts. One of the parts that I needed to change was the drysump pump from ARE. This new pump is a 4-stage pump that still uses the LS1 pan that I previously bought from ARE. The pump uses an HTD system (cog style belt) with a collet for tightening on the pump shaft. From there I had an issue getting the ATI Damper hub for the Vortech to line up to the pulley on the drysump pump. ARE didn’t have a solution, ATI didn’t have a solution and ATI was way to busy to make me a custom hub. I finally managed to get the right hub from another customer of my engine builder, the same guy who built a LS motor with the same supercharger. The only thing I need now is a slightly longer belt for the pulley.
I ordered the alternator with bracket/pulleys/tensioner/bolts that were on the 2013 Camaro because it didn’t use a power steering pump, just like my setup. The problem was it wasn’t lining up with my water pump. I ended up exchanging the Corvette style water pump for Meziere’s electric water pump. When the pump arrived, I was stoked, so after a long day at work I went to install the Meziere pump. Guess what it didn’t line up either. I needed to get the 1.75” spacers from Meziere so I placed my order. When it arrived back down stairs to do the install and guess what I discovered? Meziere sells me 1.75” spacers but they don’t ship the longer bolts needed. In fact, they don’t even sell the longer bolts period. Off to a hardware store the next day and buy some bolts. Went home and installed the pump and then it was time for the serpentine belt to go on. AND GUESS WHAT FREAKING HAPPENED?
It fit. All of the waiting and more waiting and watching it all line up was a sweet thing.



Next up, installing the custom motor mount to see if the new drysump pump fit, it didn’t. While one area was close there was still the issue of a proper fit and having the fitting’s all line up. So, I thought let’s see how close it was. Here is how close it was.



Here is my slight butchering mod to see what I needed to do. At this point I thought I was looking at getting front/rear engine plates to use as motor mounts.





The surprise came yesterday when the owner of a fabrication shop came to the house to look over the project and he said he can make the mount work with some enhancement to the remaining supports. I admit I liked hearing that.
After I had that all done, I needed to find out the burning question, will the S/C fit in my engine bay because I don’t quite have the same space as a 2013 Camaro. So, I mounted this beauty…



Keep in mind I am mounting all of these components using minimal bolts, so I don’t have to dismantle everything when something doesn’t work out. I mean, it’s not like things ever go sideways for me, right? Here is the modified motor mount waiting for the engine to be put in place.

 

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Discussion Starter #160
Here was my first sideways issue, the anchor point, for part of the body parts. Good thing that was designed to be moved and it was two small bolts.



Next issue, this looks a bit tight from this angle!



Crap, it looks tight from this angle too.



It looks even worse from this angle as neither the water pump or S/C are clearing.



Lesson learnt that day was the engine can’t be dressed before I lower it into the engine bay, so I started to remove the water pump and S/C. The upside is the fabricator is going to modify the front support area so that it is removable to allow the engine to be re & re’ed without undressing everything. I am glad I didn’t use all the bolts for the install. Another part of the problem is where the engine sits, which is far back as the firewall Lesson was pushed back. Here is the engine now being lower into the engine bay.





The engine is almost in place but now I have a clearance issue with the shaft on the steering rack. Keep in mind that I chose the stock alternator and bracket from the 2013 Camaro to keep everything lined up with the Vortech kit that I bought.










The next step was to mount the S/C so I could see how the charge tubing was going to fit in the space I have. It turns out that it didn’t like being at 3 o’clock because the tubing was to close to the wheel and steering was going to be completely compromised, so I had to re-clock the S/C. I can’t say I was too thrilled, with taking apart the S/C but, after a call to Vortech and talking to a technician I was ready to do what he told me to do. It turns out that it is really easy to clock this S/C. This picture gives you a close up of the impeller of this S/C and I think it looks like a work of art. There is also a picture of where the tube needs to sit to clear the tire.





 
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