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Discussion Starter #1
I am new to this site and have been reading alot:) . I have a couple of questions about making some modifications. From what i read, most effective mods would be gmpp stage 2, corsa cat back, cai intake, torque dampener. Everything after these mods are reletively insignifant in hp(correct me if I am wrong), feel of the car. If anyone can tell me the performance of just these mods and what kind of stock cars they would beat, ex. 350z (yes), gto (?), etc. I am stock and recently raced my friend's 350 whp '06 gto from a 45 mph roll (just to see how bad he would beat me:D ) and he pulled me by 3 cars up to 115. With these mods where would i stand from your guy's experiences. I would like to be just as fast as him without killing the relibility of the car since it is my daily driver. (what mods would i have to do to get there? I would guess around 260 whp?)

I also read that someone took their car up to something like 7800 rpms after doing the stage 2:eek: . I would never do this, but then someone posted that with titanium valves you could go to 8k- do you guys think this is possible, if so why haven't i heard anything else about it. It would seem that you would have a huge increase in hp even being able to take it to 7500 rpm. With just the 3" pully would you be overspinning the sc?
 

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The mods you listed would make the car significantly faster. There are guys on this forum who have taken down goats but i won't go as far as to say that those mods would be enough. There are just to many factors. But i will say that Stage 2/ CAI/ Catback/ Torque dampener combination could definately gain back a significant part of that "3 car" distance

Anyway, the stage 2 is by far the greatest increase in power, but smaller pulleys and different tunes have yielded significant results. Not to mention suspension stuff to keep those tires on the ground.

Hope this helps and welcome to the site!
 

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with the mods listed above what kind of whp can you expect to be seeing ? and what about tq rateing?. my cai is on the way stage 2 and exhaust will be my next couple mods. and what kind of track times could you expect to see mid to low 13s with some good driveing
 

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I would say go with the cobalt addiction stage 3 with no extra mods they say nets 270 hp dats wut im going with next after my intake and 2nd HE are done
 

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From everyone I've talked to at the dragstrip the mods you have mentioned will probably net you a mid to high 13 second run. Traction is a bitch with front drive cars and only gets worse with the more you mod. Drag radials are a big help and slicks are the ultimate traction adder! You should be able to handle bone stock 350z ,Srt-4, Civic si, GTI's, older mustangs (pre 1999) and of course cobalts and redlines. You should be closer to the Gto but I think you'll still lose to it and you should be neck and neck with a new mustang. If you really want to run with the big dogs you gotta get slicks for track racing!!!
 

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From everyone I've talked to at the dragstrip the mods you have mentioned will probably net you a mid to high 13 second run. Traction is a bitch with front drive cars and only gets worse with the more you mod. Drag radials are a big help and slicks are the ultimate traction adder! You should be able to handle bone stock 350z ,Srt-4, Civic si, GTI's, older mustangs (pre 1999) and of course cobalts and redlines. You should be closer to the Gto but I think you'll still lose to it and you should be neck and neck with a new mustang. If you really want to run with the big dogs you gotta get slicks for track racing!!!
Correct^:D :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
what would you expect in 1/4 to get if you get the cobalt addictions stage 3 or 4 in place of gm stg 2 along with other mods listed.
 

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I can't speak for the axles in a cobalt but I run a low 12 second stage 3 srt-4 and haven't had any problems with my axles while running slicks!. 2 things that will kill an axle are wheel hop, And if you dont do your burnout correctly. Motor mounts and traction bars should get rid of all your wheel hop not to mention the more horsepower you have the more likely the tires will spin instead of hop with slicks. When you do your burnout and you let off the e-break ride the burnout to a finish. Don't slam the breaks as soon as you start rolling forward. I seen more people break axles at the burnout box than I have ever seen racing. Drag racing is real hard on the car so expect to break something sooner or later. I just toasted a clutch last month, but it gave me an excuse to get a clutchmaster stage 4 :D
 

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I am new to this site and have been reading alot:) . I have a couple of questions about making some modifications. From what i read, most effective mods would be gmpp stage 2, corsa cat back, cai intake, torque dampener. Everything after these mods are reletively insignifant in hp(correct me if I am wrong), feel of the car. If anyone can tell me the performance of just these mods and what kind of stock cars they would beat, ex. 350z (yes), gto (?), etc. I am stock and recently raced my friend's 350 whp '06 gto from a 45 mph roll (just to see how bad he would beat me:D ) and he pulled me by 3 cars up to 115. With these mods where would i stand from your guy's experiences. I would like to be just as fast as him without killing the relibility of the car since it is my daily driver. (what mods would i have to do to get there? I would guess around 260 whp?)

I also read that someone took their car up to something like 7800 rpms after doing the stage 2:eek: . I would never do this, but then someone posted that with titanium valves you could go to 8k- do you guys think this is possible, if so why haven't i heard anything else about it. It would seem that you would have a huge increase in hp even being able to take it to 7500 rpm. With just the 3" pully would you be overspinning the sc?
The rev limiter is taken off for the tune up of the Stage2 right????
 

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If I were you I would just stick with the stage 2, cai, and torque damper. (At least these dont void your warranty) I personally may go with a 2.8 or 2.7 inch pulley sooner or later. Hey by the way, while I'm talking about it... Will a 2.8 pulley bolt on to the hub that came with the stage 2 kit????
 

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The rev limiter is taken off for the tune up of the Stage2 right????
No, it just raises it up to about 7100, stock is about 6200 or so. I have tapped the stutter chip about once or twice since Ive had stage 2 installed. But from what I hear, our power is right up to and at 7000rpm.
 

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does gm make the stage 3? and where can i find it at? Also if i do a stage 2 kit and do it myself do i need to get it reflashed?
 

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To the best of my knowledge gained on here, and by word of mouth, No, GM does not have a stage 3. If it is, it is in a developmental state to determine the drivability and reliability of the engine. You can get the stage 2 GM kit (p/n 17803229) and a smaller pulley. (preferably no smaller than 2.7 inch)Yes you do need to get it reflashed, you can drive it untuned, but you DO NOT want to get into the throttle. Part numbers are as follows for reflasing

Cobalt SS:
12607644 calibration data file- 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt SS
12607645 calibration data file- 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS

Ion Redline:
12607646 (2004)
12607647 (2005)
12607648 (2006)

These are straight from the LSJ Specifications manual, page number 8 of 24.

My opinion: It would have cost me $265 for reflash, with me installing. It cost me $391 for them to install and reflash, and then not have to worry about possibly voiding my warranty. I did the latter and got them to get their hands dirty.
 

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To the best of my knowledge gained on here, and by word of mouth, No, GM does not have a stage 3. If it is, it is in a developmental state to determine the drivability and reliability of the engine. You can get the stage 2 GM kit (p/n 17803229) and a smaller pulley. (preferably no smaller than 2.7 inch)Yes you do need to get it reflashed, you can drive it untuned, but you DO NOT want to get into the throttle. Part numbers are as follows for reflasing

Cobalt SS:
12607644 calibration data file- 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt SS
12607645 calibration data file- 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS

Ion Redline:
12607646 (2004)
12607647 (2005)
12607648 (2006)

These are straight from the LSJ Specifications manual, page number 8 of 24.

My opinion: It would have cost me $265 for reflash, with me installing. It cost me $391 for them to install and reflash, and then not have to worry about possibly voiding my warranty. I did the latter and got them to get their hands dirty.
so a smaller pulley doesnt void warranty?? os you can kinda cheat and get the stg2 then put on a smaller pulley than the stage kit.
 

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Im wondering if a smaller pulley will fit to the hub of the stage 2 kit though... I dont know if you would have to get another hub pressed on or not. But no, I have seen in another thread that there is a law stating that "a dealership or manufacturer cannot void a warranty unless the part is deemed the sole source of the engine malfunction." So, to my conclusion... As long as you keep your old stuff, you can put it back on if your car screws up and say that it wasnt any aftermarket stuff that caused any problems.
 

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A smaller pulley would just create more boost anyways, so you could put a smaller pulley without injectors, just not too small. Then you would have a problem with detonation.
 

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If I were you I would just stick with the stage 2, cai, and torque damper. (At least these dont void your warranty) I personally may go with a 2.8 or 2.7 inch pulley sooner or later. Hey by the way, while I'm talking about it... Will a 2.8 pulley bolt on to the hub that came with the stage 2 kit????
there is a 2.8 inch pulley being sold that mates to the gm hub. do a search on here for "gm stage 2 pulley" or something like that to find the thread.

p.s. if you really want a fast car, then you shouldn't be worrying about your warranty.
 
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